Hotlanta: Varsity Drive-In

 After such a long day I was feeling a little peckish. We pulled up to the Varsity . According to the website, “The World’s Largest Drive-in sits on more than two acres and can accommodate 600 cars and over eight hundred people inside…It sells more than two miles of hotdogs daily, a ton of onion rings, 2500 pounds of fresh cut potatoes, 5000 homemade fried pies, and 300 gallons of chili, all of which are made from scratch daily. The downtown Varsity is also the world’s largest single outlet for Coca-Cola.”

Compared to the monster burgers of LA, the Varsity chili burger looked a little wimpy. But good things come in small packages, and somehow the patty and their house-made chili melded together into one explosive meat bomb of flavor.

Not only was the hot dog covered in that rich chili, but the dog itself was quality. A nice, intense Nathan’s kosher dog flavor stood up to the chili making for one hell of a dog.

In spite of their impressive record with coca-Cola, the Varsity is all about the Frosty Orange, known to regulars as the F.O. It is like an orange shake with a slushy texture and real juice flavor instead of that artificial “orange drink” taste.

My only disappointment was the peach pie, which was soaked with grease. An hour’s wait to eat it may be to blame, but judging by the taste, even eaten hot I would guess it would be more greasy than crispy.

Car hops, or “Curb men” holler to each car that pulls into the long row of parking spaces, letting everyone know that they are on their way, even when there are four cars ahead of them.

“What’ll Ya Have?”

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Hotlanta: Sunday in the Park with Georgia

Sunday I had a run of luck. After visiting the Aquarium I heard the faint strains of music coming from Centennial Park. I followed my ear and found an Arts Festival. People were spread out on a huge expanse of grass relaxing on blankets.

Omar Sosa was onstage playing his particular brand of Latin and Afro-Cuban jazz. Born in Cuba, he now resides in Barcelona so it was a rare chance to see him perform.

I bought a number of books and some earrings before checkin out the food. An order of conch fritters with peas and rice set me back 12 bucks. Conch is often compared to clams. Fried into as fritter at its best it is like a flavorless clam. At its worst it shrinks up into a chewy wad that sticks in your teeth like Jujubee candies. That being said, the fritter dough was fantastic, as were the peas and rice, which we call kidney beans in the US.

Maybe I should have ordered the alligator skewers

It was a sunny day and kids cooled off in the fountain. I ended up with a sunburn, but it was worth it.

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Hotlanta: Under the Sea

Regular readers may have noticed that I love aquariums! Last week I happened to catch a show called “Really Big Things” about the Atlanta Aquarium. They have the largest tank in the West, maybe the world, and they are the only place where we can see the world’s biggest fish — the whale shark. I couldn’t get there fast enough.

Beluga Whales

http://youtu.be/ExVdiMg4IXI

The Ocean Voyager Exhibit holds 6.3 million gallons making it the largest aquarium habitat in the world. It is home to 4 manta rays and 4 whale sharks. It was recently home to hammerhead sharks until some unauthorized snacking landed them in isolation. Although the whale sharks aren’t yet full-grown, they are still enormous.

I took a behind the scenes tour, which focused on the day to day running of the aquarium — water levels and temps, giant valves, feeding and vetrinary care.

We got to watch the whale sharks being fed.

I wanted to jump right in the aquarium and take a swim. The tour guide saod, “Oh you can do that. Talk to them up front about special programs.”

Heeheeheeeheeee

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Hotlanta: Mary Mac’s

Sunday morning was my first real exposure to Atlanta. Everyone had told me I would be shocked by how friendly people were, but I’m so aggressively friendly myself I felt very much in my element. My cab driver, Alatese, and I had a beautiful brunch at Mary Mac’s. The tearoom was one of many women-owned restaurants that cropped up during WWII. Although it is on its third owner, each was hand-picked and committed to continuing the legacy. You can read more about the history here. A complimentary cup of pot likker (the nutrient and flavor-rich water from boiling greens) and corn bread is brought to first-timers. “Now, you just crumble that cornbread right up in there.”

After a greeting, a drink order and short history, you are given a check to fill out with your order, like at Dim Sum places. The embossed pencils are a popular and frequently stolen souvenir (yes, I have a pencil. With my waitresses’ blessing). Not being from the South, I had the order the de rigeur and obvious fried green tomatoes. Under the thick fried coating was a sweet, sour tang that is understandably addictive. They are accompanied by a Parmesan dressing similar to Ranch. Alatese declined trying them.

For my main dish I ordered the fried chicken, which was recommended by Roadfood. I noticed the fried food in the South is still a little greasy, but the grease is clean and not off-putting. Normally I judge fried food by its lack of greasiness, but this is a different ballgame altogether. By now I had broken through Alatese’s shell of politeness which had caused him to refuse to taste any of my food. This time when I shoved a chicken wing at him and ordered, “Here, eat this” he took it without argument. Sometimes good food wins out.

The Brunswick stew was smoky and earthy and filled with pork. The cheese grits were like really good mac and cheese made with grits instead of macaroni. I was looking around for my other sides and I had to call the waitress over and explain that when I ran out of room I continued writing my order on the back of the check.

Clockwise from left: Sweet potato souffle with melted marshmallow, a good dish to save for dessert. Tomato pie, with an ethereal topping of breadcrumbs, Parmesan and butter that is somehow as light as air. Dressing, just like you hope it will be, dense with cornbread and topped with gravy, Mac and cheese perfection.

I tried Alatese’s baked catfish. Normally I would have it fried, but it made me a convert. He kept saying in disbelief, “It is so perfect. It melts in my mouth.”

Do I dare to eat a peach? Yes! Take a nice fresh fruit and load it with butter and sugar, add a pie crust and some ice cream, and I will make room. I did have to take half of my main dish home to make room, but slurping the slippery peach slices up like wiggling fishies was worth saving room for.

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Hotlanta: Walter’s Soulfood Express

I emerged from the airport into the heat of Atlanta and approached the taxi dispatcher, “Is a taxi or a town car more likely to stop somewhere to eat?

“You wanna eat?”

“Just you know, like a chicken shack or something.”

Passer-by, addresses the dispatcher incredulously: We have chicken shacks in Atlanta?

Dispatcher: No.

My taxi driver started out wary, telling me there would be lots of nice places around my hotel. Finally, I got through to him and he took me to Walter’s Soulfood Express Cafe. It’s a neighborhood joint in little row of businesses On Cleveland Avenue. The employees were friendly, and sure enough, there was a basket of peaches by the register. Welcome to Atlanta. The driver and I both ordered oxtails, and I also ordered fried catfish to-go, because I needed to stock up, after all.

There was a problem with my payment at the hotel, so it took forever to get to my room. Normally, fried catfish would have steamed all to hell. But it was still crispy and delicious, even cold. It looks like there may be dark meat under the coating, but it’s just dark from all of the spices. The greens were spicy perfection, and the mac and cheese were just what you would expect.

Even though I was oretty full I gobbled up the rice and gravy from under the oxtails as a midnight snack. The gravy was unbelievable.

The red velvet cake was supermoist and had the surprising addition of nuts and a little bit of raisins. I’m still pondering whether or not I should have gotten the key lime cake.

The Marriott Marquis is frighteningly tall. My room is in the 20s and still near the bottom. The rails that are supposed to keep you from falling the length of the CN Tower look like monkey bars, which seem like they would be a dare to a person on the right kind of drunk. My room is nice and quiet, and the bed is sheer heaven. What more can you ask for?

On the way home, the driver said, “Now that I saw that turkey, I think I’m going to have to go right back there and get that turkey. It looked so good.”

I knew this was my guy, “What’s your day rate? Want to have breakfast with me at Mary Mac’s tomorrow?”

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Hotlanta: Dallas Layover BBQ

My dad used to say that even when you died, on the way to heaven you had to switch planes in Memphis. Lately it hasn’t been Memphis, but Dallas, so Dickey’s BBQ at DFW has become a tradition. The original Dickies, opened in 1941 is still owned by the original family. They are aggressively franchising though. Franchise or no, everyone who sat down with a personal pan pizza gawked at my plate of BBQ with open envy. Their brisket is probably their best meat. The pulled pork just isn’t quite Memphis quality. The pork ribs are tender and meaty, but on this visit had a thin outer shell of tough, dry meat. The mac and cheese is so-so, but the baked potato casserole is spectacular, simply spectacular. Well, as spectacular as a baked potato dish gets.

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Am I a Terrible Person?

I cover foodie events that feature table after table of small bites from a variety of restaurants. Normally I roam around the side and back of tables to get shots of famous chefs, people preparing food, and people handing food to other people. You may have noticed I also love the patterns that rows of small plates make.

While I’m doing my thing I often josh a little with the employees, and sometimes they hand me a plate. Many chefs understandably want to prepare a special plate with a perfect garnish and no splatter for a photograph. I usually take that plate over to a sunny area to photograph it. I don’t stand in front of the line gleefully enjoying the food and laughing, “Suckersssss.”

As an extremely enthusiastic, if not professional, reporter, I feel like it’s my job to get the story. I have to try each and every bite in order to make restaurant recommendations and take beautiful, mouth-watering pictures so that you can live vicariously through the posts. Besides wanting those behind-the-scenes pictures I am often racing the sunset and the sheer impossibility of hitting every table. And like a crazed food paparazzi, I have to get the shot. I have to get the story.

Well, this week I was at Disneyland. It was a particularly hot and crowded day. As I waited in a miserably long line for ice cream, another park employee slipped up to the side of the counter and ordered ice cream for herself and some friends. As she sailed past, I noticed a particularly self-satisfied look on her face. If I had laser-beam eyes, she would have been dust.

Last night at another food event, I noticed the other food bloggers patiently waiting in line like good citizens, and I realized that I am probably lucky that no one has laser beam eyes.

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Roadtrip Classics Central Cali 5

We stopped at the Madonna Inn in Morro bay even though we were still full from the BBQ. Really, I never eat there anyway. The coffee shop isn’t very good at the Madonna Inn. The only thing I ever remember eating there was chicken salad. I’ll put it this way…it would be a nice place to take your grandmother. There is a very high blue-hair ratio there. There are only two reasons to stop at the Madonna Inn:

1. Freakishly huge pastries
2. To blow people’s minds

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Roadtrip Classics Central Cali 4

On our last morning My husband Bob and I went to check out Nitt Witt Ridge, one of those places like the Watts Towers where an enterprising free spirit takes a pile of glass and shells and with a little cement, makes a home. It was something to see, but we were 2 hours early for the tour, so we didn’t see much of it. On the way down the hill, we met a disheartened couple who thought that maybe there was nothing on Nitt Witt Ridge…as in, “Haha, you’re the nitwit for climbing the hill! Gotcha!” We assured them it wasn’t just a practical joke.

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Roadtrip Classics Central Cali 3

Back in Cambria, we went into a little used bookstore. The prices were outrageous. I figured if the owner was that picky, she was the person to ask for restaurant recommendations. She recommended the Main Street Grill, which sounded kind of corporate. From the facade, the building looked kind of corporate.

But on the patio was a humongous Santa Maria-style wood-burning BBQ pit. It was the biggest Santa maria BBQ I have ever seen. Even bigger than the ones I’ve seen pulled by trucks. It was covered with slab after slab of ribs. The patio itself was flush with bikers…always a good sign at a BBQ.

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Roadtrip Classic Central Cali 2

 

Cambria Pines Lodge is a beautifully landscaped wedding factory. One of those places that just churn them out, three a day. Instead of the weddings being disruptive, they were kind of fun to watch from afar, because some people were dressed like cowboys or wore top hats like Abe Lincoln. One couple inexplicably had hand puppets. And kind of creepy hand puppets at that.

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Road Trip Classics: Central Cali

before we even knew it as “blogging” we were sharing our travels on www.roadfood.com Here is an oldie from 2006:

We drove up the central coast of California last weekend to celebrate my mother’s birthday in Cambria, a little resort town between Morro Bay and Big Sur. It’s a beautiful drive, with tantalizing glimpses of the Pacific Ocean, and giant rocks that look like petrified dinosour bones. The trip is mostly through Sycamore trees, with tufts of yellow grass and Pampas growning inbetween. When passing through a city, everything turns to Oleander. Occasionally you are graced by a sweeping panorama of ocean, and on this trip I spotted a whale and a school of dolphins. It must already be time for migration.

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Treat Your Mama Right

Just like an anniversary or a partner’s birthday, Mother’s day can sneak up on you. But you aren’t doomed to just buying a sad bouquet on the freeway offramp. Kiki is here to help with some ways to give your mother what she really wants — your time.

FRIDAY, MAY 6, 2011 6:30pm-11:00pm

“A NEW DAY” art exhibit to benefit Japan

Artist Alevé Mei Loh organized this group exhibit for Japanese earthquake and tsunami relief. Admission is free and paintings start at $100. Curated by Henry Lien, Owner/Director Glass Garage Gallery, the exhibit features works from over 30 artists.  Lien describes the show thusly, “This exhibition is ultimately a portrait of the impulse in art to find meaning and renewal in loss,” So take your mother out for a genteel evening of VeeV Acai Spirits, wine, and fine art while helping all of the mothers in Japan. Bellrock Media, Inc. 2917 Santa Monica Blvd, Santa Monica, CA 90405

(Pictured) Jon Measures “Rejuvenation 1” 2011. Mixed Media on Board.

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Visit Toronto! They Put Wacky Things in their Food!

Over the winter the Tourist Board of Toronto hosted a dinner at Highlands Hollywood with Toronto Chef, Guy Rubino. Rubino is co-host of Food Network Canada’s “Made to Order.” The purpose of the dinner was to promote Toronto’s “luxury hotel boom”, and new “cultural developments”. You don’t have to sell me on Toronto. As regular readers know, I am already a big fan. I am also a big fan of their Westin.

I was curious to try some more Toronto haute cuisine and see this this chef’s spin on fusion with ingredients like choke cherries and saskatoons. Since it was also a wine tasting I brought along my friend Lyssa to be my expert in that field.

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The Joy of Cheese Sex

Cheese Sex is a voluptuous, buttery cheese spread with a sudden sharpness and smooth finish. Its discovery by local cheese aficianados lies in a sourcing expedition by “Cheese Impresario” Barrie Lynn to Joe Widmer’s Cheese Cellars in Wisconsin.

Widmer is a third-generation cheesemaker and the only person in the world making “brick cheese,” using bricks to press out the whey. The resulting cow’s milk cheese is in the stinky family along with Limburger, but it’s a distant relation with just a hint of funk. 

When Widmer first offered Lynn his version of brick “Cheese Spread” she politely accepted in spite of unpleasant flashbacks to Cheese Whiz. To her surprise, the mixture of brick cheese and cheddar delighted her palate and she immediately added it to her pairing repertoire.

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