Lats Do it in the Steiku Haoss

Posted on May 30, 2012 by Kiki Maraschino

One of our favorite examples of “Latvish” is this Steiku Haoss. It’s and American “theme” restaurant and we thought what the hell. Sitting amongst the Old West Americana listening to Johnny Cash I realized why we were so comfortable in Latvia. Bars crank Hendrix and the Doors, and everywhere else the national music seems to be American Muzak. So much so that we have started playing Name That Tune…”You Were Always on my Mind!” It’s hard to feel like a foreigner in a place that seems like an ode to America.

OK, so yeah, umm steiku haoss…

mm

 I ordered the filet mignon, which was kind of small and coated in a sweetish glaze.

Bob ordered salmon papardelle and this came out

Then this

Compared to the other places we have eaten, it was the least friendly and most overpriced. Hopefully that says more about the neighborhood than America. We are in a fun, partying tourist area. If this is New orleans, we are staying on Bourbon Street.

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Lats Do it in the Cemetary

Posted on May 30, 2012 by Kiki Maraschino

Everyone thought I was such a trouper for hiking through this huge cemetary in the rain, but no matter how many times I replied, “I love cemetaries” I don’t think anyone understands that I LOVE cemetaries. It’s all about the photography.

There were no angels in this cemetary, but lots of pretty maidens and some very modern sculptures.

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Lats Do it Old World Style

Posted on May 30, 2012 by Kiki Maraschino

After resting up from the bus tour we decided to go to a traditional Latvian Restaurant called Salve. It was less weird than you would imagine. A lot of dill and caraway, some local spirits and locally caught fish. I was looking for pierogies. The Latvian version of pierogies uses a leavened bread instead of a pasta-type dough like Russian pierogies. There was a dumpling on the menu that everyone insisted were not pierogies, but they were totally the Russian pierogies I know and love.

Oh, did I mention they have a thing about Russians here? About half of the population is Russian, but since the Soviet Union occupied Latvia a long time ago and once again recently, people kind of have an attitude. This is how the Communists are portrayed outside of the Museum of the Occupation.

Ok, so back to drinking and eating. We ordered a flight of local liquers, especially to try the Balsam, the national drink. It is an intensely herbal 38-proof liquer that is considered medicine. It’s supposed to be good for the heart.

Here I am trying Balsam for the first time

Allazu is a caraway liquer made in a little town South of here. They are very proud to have presented it to Queen Elizabeth on Christmas. I wonder if she made the same faces I did. Actually, I liked the Allazu as well as the cranberry and the coffee liquers, but those two don’t have stories.

Bob ordered the pork, a safe bet in Eastern European or eastern bloc countries.

I tried the duck with cherry sauce which totally paid off. It was some of the best duck I have ever tried.

Up until now we had had really good luck with vegetarian food, but sometimes the vegetarians get short shrift. This is a wheat berry porridge that Bridgin claimed to adore.

The restaurant is next door to the Blackheads House, which yes, suffers in the translation. But it was gorgeous.

Now remember, it’s like 8:30 at night in these pictures. It seems to only get dark between midnight and 4am here. So our plans for tomorrow involve a trip – and I had nothing to do with this – to a cemetary!

 

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Lats do it on the Bus

Posted on May 29, 2012 by Kiki Maraschino

 

Since we couldn’t get the timing right for the boat tours, we decided to hop on a good old-fashioned double decker bus tour and check out some architecture. There were some gorgeous art nouveau buildings, old Soviet box buildings, and wooden buildings reminiscent of New Orleans.

This is the hospital where Bridgin was born.

 

 

See, I don’t always seek out graveyards. Sometimes they just happen.

We happened upon an elegant courtyard restaurant called Garden something – Gardenia? and had light fish dishes. I had halibut with lemongrass, Bob had a pike, and Bridgin had the French onion soup with a vegetable broth. It was a windy day and when the server ground pepper over my dish it flew right into my eyes. I decided to suck it up, because I am a guest on this trip and I am consciously trying to avoid drama. Then the wind blew over a giant iron parasol and it landed right on my head.

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Lats Do It in the Park

Posted on May 28, 2012 by Kiki Maraschino

This morning I woke up insanely early, so I walked around taking pictures.

Breakfast was provided by the hotel and was fantastic. They had little cottage cheese pancakes that were totally addictive. They also had pickled fish and seafood salad, not your typical American fare.

These pancakes on the right kick ass

We went to a nearby park to take a boat ride,but we missed the boat 3 times before giving up.

‘

I asked for a translation and this man is singing about his love. And the river. The ubiquitous river.

So why did we keep missing the boat? We got distracted by Freedom Monument.

And I also was drinking beer at the Alus Ordenes, the Order of Beer, which is just downstairs from the bar I call The Pooping Cat.

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Latvia Bound

Posted on May 28, 2012 by Kiki Maraschino

Yesterday we flew to Latvia to meet up with Bob’s mom, Bridgin. It was like that movie, “Planes Trains and Automobiles.”  Between bad weather, a broken lavatory and general panic, we spent over 18 hours in the air. The first pilot was kind of scary. During his announcements he said, “Should the air crew ask for your assistance with any matters that may arrise, please feel free to join in with enthusiasm.” We were ostensibly going to take a guy down? Then he said, “This is the kind of announcement that I hate to make…” Were we going down? Was there a man on the wing of the plane? I was relieved when it was just a problem due to weather.

Our itinerary of LAX-JFK-Helsinki-Riga became LAX-Syracuse-Rome-Riga.

I was very excited about Rome and wanted to change flights to stay overnight, but there was going to be none of that. I did get to eat some yummy Italian delicacies at a concession stand.

When we arrived at the airport, our luggage had been lost, and when we arrived at the hotel our room had been cancelled. Luckily they still had a room for us, but as of yet no luggage. I should have worn my sneakers and packed these heels as the streets around here are all cobblestone.

The room is sparse and very clean, with a huge, deep bathtub. The views are incredible. A group of Latvian soldiers bought the building when they were able to repatriate, and people like to stay here to support them.

Riga is a little reminiscent of New Orleans, with very lush, verdant greenery and old buildings falling into disrepair. But some of these buildings date back to the year 200. It’s a cross here between Soviet Bloc seriousness and Scandinavian organization and attention to detail, which makes for very clean streets.

We met up with Bob’s mom and wandered around looking for a restaurant. You’re in a new, fascinating Baltic country? What do you eat? Sushi! The fish was first-rate and it was nice to have something light.

By now it was around 11pm and still light enough to read outside. I woke up at 5am to find the same bar rats singing Oasis at the top of their lungs. I asked the desk clerk, “So the bars never close?”

He seemed offended, “They close!”

I replied, “Oh, because I just saw them having a sing-along across the street.”

“In the morning, they close.”

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Farewell Hotlanta

Posted on May 24, 2012 by Kiki Maraschino

On my last day in Atlanta, my taxi driver/local guide turned me on to this sort of Farmers Market/Granville Island collection of food and shops called Curb Mart.

Red Velvet Whoopie Pie. Wouldn’t you?

 

For my last meal in Atlanta, I thought long and hard, weighing all of the options. I finally decided that what I really wanted to do was return to Mary Mac’s Tea Room. I ordered the baked catfish, which was scrumptous. I tried the squash casserole, and had to order the Brunswick stew for the second time.

It was a quiet night and we had time to gossip. I noticed a picture of the Dalai Lama and Richard Gere on the wall. I asked, “But all of your food has pork in in. Did you have to make a special meal?” They told me that Richard Gere ordered a special vegetarian meal, but the Dalai Lama ate pork. Accept what is offered with graciousness and humility is that lesson.

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Georgia on my Mind

Posted on April 14, 2012 by Kiki Maraschino

 

You can’t visit Atlanta and not see the birthplace of Martin Luther King Jr. and his church, just down the street from each other.

We took a break for lunch at Rolling Bones BBQ.

I can’t help myself, but before I left I did a quick drive-thru the local cemetary. They even had confederate soldiers.

Bury me behind the catfish shack

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Hotlanta: Silver Skillet and Art

Posted on March 12, 2012 by Kiki Maraschino

I had the next day off for sightseeing. Alatese and I started the morning off at the Silver Skillet.

As I often do when traveling, I visited the art museum.

They had a great collection of marble and of folk art. By a strange coincidence I was to later meet and have lunch with the man who donated these Singleton pieces to the museum.

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Hotlanta: Swimming with Sharks

Posted on March 12, 2012 by Kiki Maraschino

After Fat Matts, Angy and I went to the Coca Cola Museum. It wasn’t very exciting, unless you’re a little kid or a Coca Cola fanatic. We did like the section where you could try Coke products from all over the world.

The big excitement of the day was that I had a reservation to swim in the giant tank at the aquarium! Talk about a dream come true! Atlanta has the largest aquarium in America and the only whale sharks in captivity. These photos are courtesy of my friend Angy.

Yep, that’s me with the giant whale sharks beneath me. It’s so amazing you don’t even think about being afraid.

Later on for dinner, my cabbie Alatese and I hit FLIP, Richard Blaze of Top Chef’s burger place. The burgers were truly fantastic. I ordered a D’Lux with black diamond beef. wild mushrooms, foie gras and truffle aioli.

But for us, the big story was the shakes. They had a foie gras milkshake! It was actually good, I loved it and drank about 2/3 of it. The cabbie was having none of that and we also got a Cap’n Crunch and a Krispy Kreme, which we loved, but the Nutella with burnt marshmallow was too burnt.

Sharks and a foie gras milkshake in the same day! Living on the edge!

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Hotlanta: Fat Matt’s Rib Shack

Posted on December 4, 2011 by Kiki Maraschino

It was raining and so we took a cab to Fat Matt’s Rib Shack even though my guy wasn’t around. Open since 1990, the little rib shack is open late and has live music. The room is cozy in that Southern way with a little familiar rock club feel.

We split the pulled pork sandwich and a baby back ribs plate. I inhaled the pulled pork, but it was all about the ribs, tender and nicely sauced. I had to have the mac and cheese — de rigeur, and of course the Brunswick stew after falling in love at Mary Mac’s. Deep, rich, earthy, pretty damn umami. For a side with the ribs we went with the more low carb coleslaw, and you know, just in case they don’t have it on the pulled pork, it would be a sin.

The entertainment was fantastic, and I wished we could have lingered all day, snacking, drinking and listening as the rain fell outside, But I had promises to keep and miles to go before I sleeped.

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Hotlanta: Papadeaux

Posted on October 7, 2011 by Kiki Maraschino

Tuesday we all headed down to Papadeaux in Marietta. It was kind of corporate, but I am not going to be too picky when it comes to getting a taste of New Orleans. Plus it had all the requirements for a large group – fruity drinks, big platters, and crazy decor.

I ordered N’awlins Punch (Tito’s vodka, SKYY Infusions Citrus vodka, fresh watermelon & lemon with a dash of kosher salt.). They accidentally brought me the Swamp Thing (Raspberry & melon liqueurs blended with frozen Hurricane & Margarita.) I sent it back, and as soon as I got the correct drink I was sorry. The Swamp Thing was fruity and refreshing. The N’Awlins Punch was bland by comparison. So remember my vow to not eat any more fried food? Well, after this happened… 

 

Then this happened…

Appetizer Trio: Mini shrimp & crawfish fondeaux,. fried alligator & calamari

And then THIS happened.

Seafood Platter: Fried shrimp, fried tilapia fillet, blue crab cake,stuffed shrimp & stuffed crab .

We substituted catfish for tilapia, cause you know, it’s catfish. The stuffed crab was heaven. I would recommend this restaurant for fruity drinks and stuffed crab, but otherwise it’s just too touristy.

After all the food and wacky drinks, we stumbled back onto the hired bus. A bunch of drunk girls plus poles equals some crazy dancing. After a sudden turn sent me sprawling into another girl’s lap, we squealed and giggles. A wet blanket said, “If I had been driving this bus and you all screamed like that, I’d have driven into a tree.” With dollar bills in my panties, I stood and defended the driver’s honor. Pointing towards the front of the bus, I declared passionately, “This…man…is…a…professional!” 

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Hotlanta: Blended or On the Rocks

Posted on August 14, 2011 by Kiki Maraschino

There was quite a buzz around town about the newly opened Mexican restaurant, No Mas. Even Alatese, my taxi driver had suggested we check it out. But i come from Los Angeles, land of burritos, and I couldn’t imagine a Mexican restaurant in Atlanta coming close. No Mas turned out to be the site of my friend’s birthday party, and we all piled into a line of cars, even stuffing people in the hatchbacks like teenagers.

I suspect a lot of the hype around No Mas was a result of their super-hip and colorful decor. It was definitely a nice party venue. Since I had just eaten, I chose to have a liquid dinner – a passion fruit margarita. That’s probably another reason for the hype – who has ever heard of a passion fruit margarita?

I can’t really comment on the food, since I didn’t eat any. Everyone seemed satisfied but not impressed. The cocktails were really the star of the show. I stole a sip of my neighbor’s tortilla soup, and it was your standard generic tortilla soup – nothing wrong with it, but nothing to crow about. The combo platter looked downright unappetizing, so I won’t assault your senses with that picture. Instead, here is a close-up of the nachos, the ultimate drunk food.

But this night was not so much about food as it was about good friends

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Hotlanta Max Lager’s

Posted on August 13, 2011 by Kiki Maraschino

Monday night there was going to be a birthday party for a friend of mine. I hadn’t heard from anyone, so after awhile I gave up and went to a nearby brewery that had piqued my interest. I had been eating so much soul food I thought I could get something healthy and grilled. After a brunch of chicken and waffles I had vowed not to eat any more fried food for the rest of the day.

I don’t drink like I used to, but it was a brewery after all with their very own brewmaster, John Roberts. I tend to like ambers and reds. Upon the server’s recommendation I tried Max Red “A vibrantly red Vienna-Style lager, Max Red is a mild blend of a rich toasted malt character and subtle style but spicy hop finish.”

The 100-year old brick building is decorated in a simple but modern pub style, a nice place to while away an evening. The servers were friendly and service was prompt.

I had noticed that there were 2 main fish dishes in Atlanta – catfish and salmon. When people asked me which I suggested, I would try to reply with more charm than sarcasm, “That depends, are we in Seattle or in the South?” Locally sourced food is big in California, and their menu did mention Neiman Ranch steaks. But when I asked where the lamb was from, the waitress looked at me like she wanted to say, “I think it went to Harvard.”

Since I was looking for something local and the fire on the open grill made the whole room smell good, I started with the wood-grilled Georgia quail with honey balsamic glaze, bleu cheese grits, and pecan pesto. A very modern dish. The quails were succulent – I know it is an overused word, but there is nothing to describe how juicy and sweet the breast meat was. The grits were properly cooked, even though I am not big on blue cheese. When I remember Atlanta, this dish is one that I know I will return to order.

My main dish of shrimp was delicious and the truffle grits were much more to my taste. Mid-way through the meal I got a call to go to the birthday dinner, so I sort of rushed through the dish and rushed off to meet my friends.

The next day a group of us needed a fast and convenient lunch spot, and I remembered Max Lager’s. Almost everyone got the salad. With salmon.

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Hotlanta Monday: Gladys Knight Chicken and Waffles

Posted on August 7, 2011 by Kiki Maraschino

Gladys Knight and Ron Winans opened their Chicken & Waffles with her son Shanga Hankerson. Shanga, who started out working in his father’s butcher shop, continues the tradition today.

The decor is upscale coffee shop, and the clientele is diverse, from tourists to a big, hunky sports team that I got caught in the middle of as we squeezed through the front door. When they realized they were bouncing me around like a pinball and apologized, I was breathless, “That’s OK. I can probably stay here for about 5 more minutes.”

Once I had settled in and cooled off with an unsweetened tea, I ordered the Midnight Train: Four southern fried jumbo chicken wings and one Original waffle. I call these giant soul food chicken wings “bat wings”. The catfish and shrimp and grits both looked tempting, but if you are in a restaurant named after a dish, you should probably order that dish.

The chicken had that same Atlanta-greasy-but-in-a-good-way crunch. But I am an LA hometown girl and I have to say Roscoes has the better waffles. Although the imprint was pretty cool. Golden Malted.

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