Here, Eat This! The Adventures of Kiki Maraschino

I wandered around the back of Umami checking out the burgers. When I met the Adam Fleischman, I noticed him shaking a special seasoning on the burgers (I also noticed he bore more than a slight resemblancs to Jon Favreau). Hoping to start up a conversation on the general concept of umami, I said, “So it’s like soy sauce…”

He cut me off, saying “Oh, it’s definitely not soy sauce.” I saw the wheels turning. I realized he thought I was guessing the recipe and he was deciding whether or not to tell me what was in his magic sprinkles (it was Tamari, by the way, not soy sauce. The recipe was in the booklet). I knew I had to change tactics. This was not someone who wanted to while away the afternoon chatting about flavor profiles. This was a serious businessman.

So I asked, “Are you planning on marketing it?”

He came alive, “We have a whole line planned – spice mixes, sauces, and [he paused to think] what else?” He seemed to have better things to do than give me the pitch at the moment, so I gave him my card and continued on my way.

Fleischman definitely is a businessman. Fleischman started out in Journalism, which led to wine journalism, which led to some very prestigious jobs in the wine field where he honed his palate. He subsequently founded Bottlerock and Vonoteque. He opened the first Umami Burger on La Brea and is poised to take over the world.

Later in the evening, the longest line was snaking around to Umami. When I finally got myself a burger, I told the other cook, “Wow. I had no idea. I’m impressed.”

He said, “yeah, it’s not all hype.” Embarassed that he had read my mind, I wandered off to enjoy the fantastically meaty burger with a giant Parmesan crisp. True love.

Adam Fleischman receiving his award for Best Restaurant Concept from Will Blunt, Managing Editor of StarChefs.com and Antoinette Bruno, StarChefs.com CEO and Editor-in-Chief.

So, yeah, the basic recipe is in the program. Do I dare leak it? I’ll just give you a taste.

Umami Seasonings:
2 salted anchovies, cleaned
Tamari
Worcestershire sauce
Marmite
Truffle salt
Harissa

Now if you’re really good, maybe I’ll tell you about the ketchup.

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I was fresh from Michael Voltaggio’s table, and his sous vide Wagyu short rib was so good it was blowing my mind. I finished the plate as I approached Animal’s station, and I had an incredulous look on my face. Vinny Dotolo said, “I know. Amazing, isn’t it?”

I said, “Yeah. Do you think you can beat that?”

He good-naturedly replied, “Well, it’s not a contest.”

Just then his assistant handed a guest a ballot and said, “Make sure to vote for us.”

I hid my smile and walked away with their Poutine with oxtail, gravy and cheddar, unaware that the hinges were about to be blown off the door. Holy mother of God, going from the Wagyu straight to the oxtail may have been the best two bites I have ever had. In my life.

That poutine dish is going on my list of possible last meals. I have been lucky enough to eat so much amazing food I will have a hard time picking my last meal. They may have to kill me over and over again. It’s on the menu right now at Animal, so I have got to get down there soon.

For anyone who doesn’t know, poutine is like the national dish of Quebec, if it were a nation (and don’t you dare tell them they aren’t). Cheese curds and gravy on fries – the quintessential drunk dish. It’s one of those things that can be made really, really badly and often is. It is an eye-rolling joke to the rest of Canada, but I will go to the mat for poutine now that Animal has elevated it to heavenly status.

The gravy was so rich — first they made a veal stock, then used that to make a Bordelaise, then used that to make a foie sauce. All that hard work definitely showed. The meat, which braised for hours and hours, was flavorful and falling apart. The minor change to a quality cheddar cheese made all the difference. And it almost seemed like they magically worked out a formula so that every single fry had the perfect bite of cheese and meat instead of falling all over the place in a big mess. Let’s give these boys a “Hell, yeah!”

Ryan Duval of the Cordon Bleu program, Vinny Dotolo and Jon Shook

Really, you have to love these guys. They are like the garage band of the culinary scene. How about this quote from Food and Wine when they were awarded in the category of Best New Chefs of 2009:

On the L.A. food scene:
Vinny: “People out here eat like kids: hamburgers, hot dogs, doughnuts. You can tell: So much fast food started out here.”

The two chefs met in culinary school in Florida, where they started their culinary career moving as a unit from one restaurant to another, then to Vail, and finally Los Angeles. After a short stint at the doomed Chadwick, they got an odd job painting Ben Ford’s house, which eventually led to a job cooking for Ben’s father, Harrison Ford (yes, that’s why Ben Ford is such a babe). Then on to catering, The Food Network and finally Animal, where we can only hope we can keep them.

I first saw Vinny Dotolo at a panel called “Carnivore” where he proved himself to be knowledgeable and erudite.

Jon rocks the mic

Vinny Dotolo and Jon Shook with Will Blunt, Managing Editor of StarChefs.com and Antoinette Bruno, StarChefs.com CEO and Editor-in-Chief.

Vinny Dotolo and Jon Shook with Rory Hermann

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Can’t forget the finishing touch!

Rory Hermann of Bouchon Bistro and I have bumped into each other a few times in the past – once in the kitchen of Bouchon during their grand opening with our good friend Larry King, who we often get together with for coffee and a round of canasta.

Rory won my heart with these little pork belly and pesto bites

For my first formal dinner at Bouchon, I ordered the luscious short ribs and my friend went for the breast.

We visited the kitchen after our gorgeous meal. Maybe it was the fact that I’d been allowed to run wild all over the place during the opening so I felt at home. Maybe it was the champagne or just my boisterous personality. but I didn’t enter the kitchen with the usual humility. Rory was happy to hear our compliments and stopped all of the staff so he could announce, “These fine young ladies here have reported that they just had a meal that totally kicked ass!” to resounding applause.

They have a wide-screen TV with a 2-way live feed between this kitchen and the one in Yountville, which was a trip. After getting some sauce-making advice, we waved goodbye and waved thanks to everyone, then in a strange Cheap Trick moment I raised my hands over my head and hollered at the screen, “…and good-niiight Yountville!”

So maybe I shouldn’t have been surprised when I introduced myself to the chef at Rising Stars and he said, “Oh, YOU I remember.” Everyone at their station was laughing and having a good time. In addition to the Sweetbreads with Celery and Sauce Perigourdine they had those lovely, lovely chocolate bouchons. They even had little bags of brittle to take home. Such good hosts.

Rory Hermann receiving his award from Thomas Keller

Thomas Keller looks ready to start some mischief with those pesky balls of his

…and Rory gets the reach on John Rivera Sedlar.

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Michael Voltaggio pulled a last minute switcheroo on us at Rising Stars. The menu described “Langoustine and mushroom Lasagne with Porcini Cracker and Fennel Pollen”. We’re cooking with pollen now?

We couldn’t complain about the replacement dish though, “Wagyu short rib, cream of dehydrated broccoli and cheddar tagliatelle”

The sous vide Wagyu was like heaven, so tender and flavorful. I told Michael that I hated broccoli, and he resplied, “Me too. That’s why I invented this dish.” The broccoli had an unusual texture with a bit of crunch, but absolutely no flavor. All that bitterness and ick were just gone ..poof. Like magic.

I first came across Michael Voltaggio in the open kitchens of Bazaar. His look was so striking I asked if I could take his picture, and to this day it is one of my favorite portraits.

Michael started out at Greenbriar Resort in West Virginia, and moved on to the Ritz Carlton in Naples, FLA. He worked closely with Chef Palmer while Dry Creek Kitchen was earning its Michelin Star. After his stint at the Bazaar, where I first met him, he went on to Top Chef fame. He is now the executive chef at The Dining Room at The Langham, which we will definitely be checking out soon.

Michael receiving his award

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Star Chefs is an industry magazine for chefs. They hold The Rising Stars events in major cities, like this event for LA/San Diego, though it was pretty LA-focused. The chefs are chosen by their peers, last year’s winners and even the local press. First, each chef prepares small plates for the appreciative crowd, followed by the awards presentation.

Naturally I ran around like a maniac taking a million pictures, hence the multiple blog entries. I later realized that I had missed a few dishes. Providence’s sweet Asian-inspired soup, Addison’s canard roti, and salmon.

It was a pretty meat-heavy menu, which was perfect. I was feeling pretty carnivorous that evening. I was extremely excited to see that Kuniko Yagi of Sona was serving up foie gras. Swoon.

The foie gras was perfect – caramelized on the outside with a custardy interior. I had to walk around and compliment the man cooking the foie gras. I said, “It’s pretty amazing that you are able to turn out perfect foie gras on a BBQ in near-darkness.”

He replied, “Especially since I’m a pastry chef.”

I always thought foie gras needed a heavy fruit sauce to balance out the occasional intense liver flavor, but this is the second time I’ve had foie with Japanese flavors, and I have to admit to being totally won over. Kuniko’s sauce was made with black sugar. It was accompanied by teensy mochi that were adorable, but I didn’t eat them as one bite with the foie gras, more like as a chaser.

They were garnished with adorable miniature strawberries.

I have to admit to shamelessly returning to Koniko’s station three times. People kept asking me what dish I liked and I would lead them over to her table, then, well, as long as I was there…

According to the booklet, Kuniko Yagi grew tired of banking in her native Japan and moved to America where she discovered her love for cooking while working in a noodle house. A lucky conversation with one patron, David Meyers, landed her a position in the kitchen at Sona where she quickly worked her way up to chef de cuisine. Here, Meyers applauds her.

Kuniko’s proud mom

A private joke with Bouchon’s Rory Hermann

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