Rising Stars: Rory Hermann

Posted on March 26, 2010 by Kiki Maraschino

Can’t forget the finishing touch!

Rory Hermann of Bouchon Bistro and I have bumped into each other a few times in the past – once in the kitchen of Bouchon during their grand opening with our good friend Larry King, who we often get together with for coffee and a round of canasta.

Rory won my heart with these little pork belly and pesto bites

For my first formal dinner at Bouchon, I ordered the luscious short ribs and my friend went for the breast.

We visited the kitchen after our gorgeous meal. Maybe it was the fact that I’d been allowed to run wild all over the place during the opening so I felt at home. Maybe it was the champagne or just my boisterous personality. but I didn’t enter the kitchen with the usual humility. Rory was happy to hear our compliments and stopped all of the staff so he could announce, “These fine young ladies here have reported that they just had a meal that totally kicked ass!” to resounding applause.

They have a wide-screen TV with a 2-way live feed between this kitchen and the one in Yountville, which was a trip. After getting some sauce-making advice, we waved goodbye and waved thanks to everyone, then in a strange Cheap Trick moment I raised my hands over my head and hollered at the screen, “…and good-niiight Yountville!”

So maybe I shouldn’t have been surprised when I introduced myself to the chef at Rising Stars and he said, “Oh, YOU I remember.” Everyone at their station was laughing and having a good time. In addition to the Sweetbreads with Celery and Sauce Perigourdine they had those lovely, lovely chocolate bouchons. They even had little bags of brittle to take home. Such good hosts.

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Rory Hermann receiving his award from Thomas Keller

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Thomas Keller looks ready to start some mischief with those pesky balls of his

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…and Rory gets the reach on John Rivera Sedlar.

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Rising Stars: Michael Voltaggio

Posted on March 23, 2010 by Kiki Maraschino

Michael Voltaggio pulled a last minute switcheroo on us at Rising Stars. The menu described “Langoustine and mushroom Lasagne with Porcini Cracker and Fennel Pollen”. We’re cooking with pollen now?

We couldn’t complain about the replacement dish though, “Wagyu short rib, cream of dehydrated broccoli and cheddar tagliatelle”

The sous vide Wagyu was like heaven, so tender and flavorful. I told Michael that I hated broccoli, and he resplied, “Me too. That’s why I invented this dish.” The broccoli had an unusual texture with a bit of crunch, but absolutely no flavor. All that bitterness and ick were just gone ..poof. Like magic.

I first came across Michael Voltaggio in the open kitchens of Bazaar. His look was so striking I asked if I could take his picture, and to this day it is one of my favorite portraits.

Michael started out at Greenbriar Resort in West Virginia, and moved on to the Ritz Carlton in Naples, FLA. He worked closely with Chef Palmer while Dry Creek Kitchen was earning its Michelin Star. After his stint at the Bazaar, where I first met him, he went on to Top Chef fame. He is now the executive chef at The Dining Room at The Langham, which we will definitely be checking out soon.

Michael receiving his award

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Star Chef’s Rising Stars: Kuniko Yagi

Posted on March 22, 2010 by Kiki Maraschino

Star Chefs is an industry magazine for chefs. They hold The Rising Stars events in major cities, like this event for LA/San Diego, though it was pretty LA-focused. The chefs are chosen by their peers, last year’s winners and even the local press. First, each chef prepares small plates for the appreciative crowd, followed by the awards presentation.

Naturally I ran around like a maniac taking a million pictures, hence the multiple blog entries. I later realized that I had missed a few dishes. Providence’s sweet Asian-inspired soup, Addison’s canard roti, and salmon.

It was a pretty meat-heavy menu, which was perfect. I was feeling pretty carnivorous that evening. I was extremely excited to see that Kuniko Yagi of Sona was serving up foie gras. Swoon.

The foie gras was perfect – caramelized on the outside with a custardy interior. I had to walk around and compliment the man cooking the foie gras. I said, “It’s pretty amazing that you are able to turn out perfect foie gras on a BBQ in near-darkness.”

He replied, “Especially since I’m a pastry chef.”

I always thought foie gras needed a heavy fruit sauce to balance out the occasional intense liver flavor, but this is the second time I’ve had foie with Japanese flavors, and I have to admit to being totally won over. Kuniko’s sauce was made with black sugar. It was accompanied by teensy mochi that were adorable, but I didn’t eat them as one bite with the foie gras, more like as a chaser.

They were garnished with adorable miniature strawberries.

I have to admit to shamelessly returning to Koniko’s station three times. People kept asking me what dish I liked and I would lead them over to her table, then, well, as long as I was there…

According to the booklet, Kuniko Yagi grew tired of banking in her native Japan and moved to America where she discovered her love for cooking while working in a noodle house. A lucky conversation with one patron, David Meyers, landed her a position in the kitchen at Sona where she quickly worked her way up to chef de cuisine. Here, Meyers applauds her.

Kuniko’s proud mom

A private joke with Bouchon’s Rory Hermann

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Rising Stars Pre-Gala Event

Posted on March 21, 2010 by Kiki Maraschino

While the chefs prepared a feast fit for kings, we were invited to enjoy a pre-event event. It was kind of like the fanciest holding pen ever, complete with champagne and caviar.

The J. Lassalle Cochet d”Or NV was clean and crisp.

We walked in with Julie and immediately saw Josh – it was an LAist fest. I noticed that the caviar with potatoes was being served on Petrossian lids. Someone asked, Isn’t that Petrossian?

Where?

In the flannel shirt.

Of course not, that guy’s like 16 years old.

The event was hosted by Jason Pendergast of Fairmont Miramar Hotel and Bungalows.

I ran into Brian, who I had met at the opening event for DineLA. He asked, “Would you like to meet Petrossian?”

“Weren’t you the guy who introduced me to Marcel…”

“Marcel Vigneron. Yes.”

“Wow, you are a really good introducer.” And so I met Benjamin Bailly of Petrossian.

I said, “It must have taken a really long time to save up all of these lids.”

Petrossian and another gentleman looked at me blankly.

“The lids they are serving on. You must have gone through a lot of caviar.”

His friend Michele said, “They are our lids. We serve caviar in the jars.”

I realized that they have the lids printed for them and I basically just did the equivalent of asking a dairy farmer how he saved up so many milk jugs. Luckily our mutual friend E*star showed up to break the awkward silence.

After photos all around, the server offered us caviar from the tray. Then I had another awkward moment. I was served caviar at my first fancy benefit at the age of 19. I spit it out. The chef came at me with a knife. My brother jumped between us and deftly lied, “She’s allergic to fish!” I haven’t touched caviar since.

Now here I was, face to face with the chef from Petrossian, being offered Petrossian caviar. I prepared to make the biggest fake smile ever. But I took a bite and waited. Nothing. No awfulness. No fishiness. It was wonderful. I was so amazed that I liked it, I told him the story I just related above. He said, “Well, then, you must come to the restaurant.”

Bob sees that as a commitment level like, “Come see my band.”

But I see it as, “Come, let me show you culinary wonders you have never dared imagine in your wildest dreams. Let me be your guide.”

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Boxes, Little Boxes

Posted on March 19, 2010 by Kiki Maraschino

Meanwhile, back in LA…

Star Chefs hosted an amazing gala at the Fairmont Mirimar in Santa Monica Thursday night. It was a gathering of the best of the best of the local culinary scene. There were offerings by LA’s cream of the crop, and guests were encouraged to vote for their favorite bite. It was nearly impossible to vote because each bite topped the last. The night’s winner was Jordan Kahn, previously of XIV. He will be opening a new place soon, but stayed mum on the name of the restaurant.

Kahn stood out with his physics-defying, perfectly symmetrical boxes of mystery. They were filled with compressed strawberries, beet, cacao fruit, elderflower, and violets. A violet sauce was splattered across the boxes like paint (I asked for extra violet paint as I am a huge fan of florals).

Remember when chocolate “bags” were once all the rage? This is Mach X of that concept – the boxes were flawless in design. The presentation was worthy of any modern art museum in the country. Each box was placed on a white ceramic tile which was to be used as the plate.

The first time I tried it I was able to crack the box in one try, but once I tried videotaping, crouched down and one-handed, the box rocked and it took a good three stabs to finally unearth the strawberry I was seeking.

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The Search for Philly’s Best Cheesesteak: South Street

Posted on March 18, 2010 by Kiki Maraschino

It is apparently against the law to go to Philadelphia and not visit South Street. I went to meet a huge group from the conference, but some special cookies mysteriously caused the group to giggle uncontrollably and run off in a hundred different directions following the blinking lights and possibly running from sights like this building.

Left with my one close friend, Ellin, we decided to hit up Jim’s, which had a good reputation. I liked the art deco style with tin ceilings and everything.

To follow a purely scientific method, I had decided to get all of my cheesesteaks with everything, choosing provolone cheese. Cheese Whiz is just too much for me. I don’t get how anyone over 9 years old can go for that sweet, gloppy goo.

Unfortunately, Jim’s “everything” included shockingly bad canned mushrooms. I was not impressed by the tough steak either. After watching me eat it stoically, Ellin finally said, “Just throw it away.” We wandered along the hooting, drunken South fraternity row of South Street for only a few blocks before becoming discouraged and heading back to the hotel for a nice swim, the best part of the evening.

Later, back home I checked out Jim’s website. Is this happy family posing in front of meathooks hung with slaughtered cattle?

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Philadelphia Freedom: The Terminal Building Kept me Alive

Posted on March 17, 2010 by Kiki Maraschino

The Reading Terminal Market was conveniently located right across the street from my conference. Thank God! I was thus rescued from group lunches at Chili’s. The Terminal Market is like Seattle’s Pike Place or San Francisco’s Ferry Building – a combination of delis, meat counters, bakeries and fresh produce.

The history of the market stretches all the way back to William Penn. When Philadelphia was established the various mongers and farmers were grouped together in an area eventually known as Market Street. The open-air market eventually started to interfere with traffic so in 1849 the markets moved indoors. The resultant Farmer’s Market and Franklin Market were later joined to become the Reading Terminal market in 1892.

In the 1970s the Reading Corporation went bankrupt and made plans to sell off the market. During the 1980s the market was revitalized. The trains stopped running and a new convention center brought in new crowds. The market now has more than 80 merchants.

The first place I hunted down was Hershels East Side Deli, which had come highly recommended. It did not disappoint.

Thick slices of juicy pastrami made from brisket on fresh and mild Easy Coast rye proved too much for me and I had to take half of the half sandwich to go. The matzoh ball soup was so flavorful and comforting. The matzoh ball had the texture and authenticity I have been searching for for years.

On another day I tried the meaty brisket and an Italian macaroni salad

On the way out I stopped at Bassets, which has been serving up ice cream since 1861, since 1893 in the Terminal Market. They used to churn the ice cream using a mule. Now this is the kind of American History I like.

People think these unusual savory ice cream flavors are a new fad, but in 1955 Basset made borscht sherbert for Nikita Khrushchev. That was not on the menu during my visit. On the recommendation of the lady behind me in line I ordered “Butterscotch Vanilla — Swirls of rich butterscotch laced through creamy Bassetts vanilla ice cream make a taste treat never forgotten.”

I like to get pictures of smiling counterpeople handing me my food. This guy is like, “You WILL eat this ice cream. Stop taking my picture and eat the damn ice cream already.”

Chocolate marshmallow

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Philadelphia Freedom: City Tavern

Posted on March 14, 2010 by Kiki Maraschino

As I mentioned before, I have never been a huge fan of American History. In fact, Colonial people scare me just a little bit. Colonial ghosts just like the guy on this sign were always chasing Scooby Doo around.

Friday night I checked into my room at the Sheraton near Penn’s Landing.

I took a walk around the cool little restaurant row. I happened upon City Tavern and was lured in by menu items like lobster pie and rabbit.

It turns out this was a rebuild of the oldest tavern in the city which was home to the first Fourth of July celebration in 1777. As my luck would have it, I had stumbled smack dab into American History within an hour of landing at the airport.

When the Tavern was completed in 1773, it was one of the most elegant buildings in the city…City Tavern knew the patronage of the great and near-great of the American Revolution. It became the practice of the members of the Second Continental Congress to dine together each Saturday at the Tavern.

The original building was demolished in 1854 and rebuilt for the bicentennial in 1976. In 1994 Walter Staub took over and dedicated himself to recreating the 18th century dining experience.

Yes, I apologize, I know it’s humiliating. But if you’re going to wear it, I damn sure am gonna take a picture (yes, I tipped extra).

I have a feeling this is not the last time I am going to see pewter goblets.

The bread plate included Anadama bread (a molasses bread), Sally Lunn, and “George Washington’s favorite rolls”. The rolls were heavy and tasted like Amish Friendship Bread. The walnuts really made them.

In spite of interesting menu items like Martha Washington Style Colonial Turkey Pot Pie and Braised Rabbit, I had to pass them up when I saw the special.

Schlachtplatte: A traditional dish served to celebrate the Schlachtfest (the butchering of a pig). An assortment of sausages and smoked pork topped with crispy fried onions accompanied by Hengstenberg sauerkraut, homemade mashed potatoes and Dijon mustard.

If I have learned anything from Anthony Bourdain, it’s when it’s pig butchering time the eatin is good. And I was not disappointed when this immense platter of piggy was set before me

The knockwurst, bratwurst and frankfurter were made with natural casings and had a great snap. As usual, the knockwurst was my favorite. The smoked pork was very much like ham and made a great breakfast sandwich the next morning. Buried under all of the meat was a gigantic mound of creamy mashed potatoes.

It’s good to know some modern niceties, like the leftovers swan, were still observed

I wandered around a little after dinner and did not forget the first thing you have to pick up when landing on the East coast…

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Philadelphia Freedom

Posted on March 13, 2010 by Kiki Maraschino

Having spent many a miserable hour studying American History in grade school, I was in no big hurry to visit Philadelphia. To be honest, Pete Townshend’s guitar is more sacred to me than the liberty bell. All I really knew about Philadelphia were cheesesteaks.

My friend made fun of me as I made my shoe selections. She said, “It’s not like the streets are still cobblestone“. Well…

There is an awful lot of brick everywhere, which explains why all of the founding fathers were freemasons. It’s not a conspiracy. They were mason masons.

The architecture is stunning

The city is into Ben Franklin in a big way

They also have a serious thing about dead policemen

True, there were lots of cheesesteaks. Or as the locals call them, just “steaks” Like this chocolate cheesesteak that I admit made me do a double-take

Now, this, I have no explanation for

I have a few tests for gauging a new city that I applied to Philly right away.

1. Do people look at you or smile as you pass?
NO

2. Do pedestrians cross on red?
YES

Just don’t block the box

And then there are those weird, random things you come across in a big city

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Make it Irish the Easy Way

Posted on March 12, 2010 by Kiki Maraschino

How do you make things Irish?

So far the easiest way has been to color it green.
Until now, when Betty Crocker brings you the easiest “Irish” treat ever invented.

1. Make cupcakes
2. Frost cupcakes
3. Stick Lucky Charms cereal on top.

Magically delicious!

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Rocket Fizz

Posted on March 11, 2010 by Kiki Maraschino

Last summer a riot of neon notified Burbank that there was a new store in town and it was all about fun! Rocket Fizz is here to bring back the candy and sodas of childhood, as well as hard-to-find local products. They even have a wide assortment of obscure diet sodas.

Partners Jack Cross, whose career in the field of body shops shows in his retro design, and pizza shop owner Luke Jacobeli have created a wonderland of nostalgia.

Customers wander around exclaiming, “No way!” “I haven’t seen this since I was a kid!” “They have apple Abba Zabbas!” Really, did you even know they had apple Abba Zabbas?

Cross and Jacobeli chose Burbank as their store location because in many ways Burbank is a retro town, with its ancient shops, Googie signage, and of course Bob’s Big Boy.

There is a patio in the back where you can enjoy your drinks and chocolate cigarettes, and they are planning to start showing B Movies there, something to foster a sense of community in the neighborhood. Rocket Fizz is open from 11am to 9pm weekdays and 10pm on weekends, but sometimes they are open even later, which saved me from an uncertain fate last Christmas Eve.

At least he went happy

I dared three people to try to fit an entire Cherry Mash in their mouths until this guy took me up on the dare.

Oh, for the halcyon days when hobos and smoking were cool

Fun with wax moustaches

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Food Crimes: Man Stabbed with Meat Thermometer

Posted on March 10, 2010 by Kiki Maraschino

While watching a 9pm showing of “Shutter Island” in Lancaster, CA, on Saturday a man asked a woman to turn off her cell phone. According to sheriff’s spokesman Steve Whitmore, and reported by KTLA,

“She and two men with her left the movie theater.

Two men returned a few minutes later and stabbed the victim.

The victim was hospitalized but is expected to survive.

Two other people who attempted to help the victim were also injured in the altercation.

Sheriff’s officials describe the suspects as black males.

One man was wearing an orange hat with an orange jacket or jersey.

The other man was dressed in a black hooded sweatshirt.”

Beyond the crime of talking on a phone in a movie theater and then retaliating violently against anyone who dared to speak up, no one has yet reported the fashion crime of wearing an orange hat and jersey.

The temperature reading has not been reported.

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Pasadena Burgers: Lucky Boy

Posted on March 9, 2010 by Kiki Maraschino

Lucky Boy in Pasadena is a Landmark. It even says so on the menu. Local families and students have been coming to the outdoor stand for over 30 years. The charred burgers come with mild onions, grilled upon request, lettuce, and the biggest tomato you have ever seen. The buns are toasted on the grill, a nice old-school touch. The chili is meaty and not too spicy, a perfect addition to the burger.

The fries are thick-cut, crispy outside and like a baked potato inside. Unfortunately the shakes aren’t made out of real ice cream, but come out of one of those weird powdered emulsifier abominations.

The main draw at Lucky Boy isn’t the burger though. The teenage boys come in for the humongous breakfast burrito, stuffed with hash browns, eggs, cheese and loads of bacon. The breakfast of champions.

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The Golden Glamour

Posted on March 8, 2010 by Kiki Maraschino

I learned how to make this year’s official Oscar cocktail, The Golden Glamour, at the Governors Ball Preview last month. Mix it up and get wasted like the really big stars do.

The Moet Golden Glamour

.25 oz. Vanilla Liquer
1.5 oz. Passionfruit juice
4 oz. Moet and Chandon Imperial Champagne
Mint sprig for garnish.

Mix together vanilla liquer and passionfruit. Top with champagne. Garnish with mint.

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Sherry Yard’s Sugar Wonderland

Posted on March 8, 2010 by Kiki Maraschino

Sherry Yard, Wolfgang Puck’s longtime pastry chef, is always laughing and smiling and whipping up delicious creations. She was once again wearing her signature pink chef’s jacket at the Governors Ball preview surrounded by a Candyland of little goodies. But how on earth could she ever top last year’s stunning chocolate bento box? How about a dessert that glows?

Yard interpreted this year’s retro “Streamline Moderne” theme by reaching back through time and producing an updated Baked Alaska. You can’t have 1500 open flames around all of those beaded gowns and teased tresses, so in lieu of setting the baked Alaskas on fire, they are set upon glowing bases. The “Etoile de Oscar” is filled with chocolate Guittard L’Etolle du Nord chocolate sorbet, espresso glace and chocolate gelato with a toffee coffee crunch and cold-infused coffee whipped cream.

In addition to the Baked Alaskas, guests will enjoy a treasure trove of sweets, including Yard’s mud cookies, which made my Top Twenty Favorite Bites last year, Miniature blackberry bundt cakes brought to mind what I used to imagine “sugarplums” would look like.

Chocolate banana truffles and cream puffs tempt the hand to stray towards the dazzling display. Lavendar macarons are Concord grape-flavored, and Yard confided that she had been up all night making Concord grape jam to fill them.

Of course, no Governor’s Ball would be complete without the little chocolate Oscars dusted with gold. The chocolate Oscars look like mummies when they are all lying down

The presentation proved so irresistible, while Wolfgang Puck spoke to the press, we noticed Sherry Yard absentmindedly nibbling on little chocolate candies out of a lollipop vase.

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