By the Baltic Sea: Sweden Really has its Shit Together

I had no idea how beautiful Sweden was. I expected the countryside would be beautiful, but we were staying in the city. The buildings in Stockholm are GORGEOUS. Buildings that are hundreds of years old are sprinkled amongst the newer, more modern structures, mainly because Sweden escaped the bombing that destroyed many of the older buildings in the rest of Europe. In the old town, Gamla Stan, there are buildings that date back to the 1200s.There are also buildings influenced by everything from 14th century German architecture to art deco.

Stockholm is a collection of fourteen islands, so there is water everywhere, making it even more picturesque. Unfortunately, for the most part, the water is too cold for swimming. I had thought, from my google map, that the places I wanted for visit were really far from each other, but nothing was more than a 15-minute Uber ride or streetcar ride away, even with traffic due to construction.

On the long drive from Liepaja to the Riga airport, we listened to Swedish tutorials, but we really only retained “Thank you,” which is “tak.” People seemed to appreciate it when we said, “tak,” but they may have been smiling at our pronunciation. In spite of Swedish being a Germanic language, I found it very difficult to pronounce, with many of the phonemes further back in the mouth than in English. After a few hours of repeating after the tutorial in the car, my mouth hurt. Speaking Italian made me feel melodramatic. Speaking Swedish made me feel drunk.

We were only in Stockholm for four days and we were in the business center or tourist spots, so I don’t think I got a good grasp on the culture. My two standard questions about a new place are really based on international visitors more than locals. For crossing the street, it seemed like New York City rules. Pedestrians often crossed the street in a big herd, so whichever thing was bigger, the vehicle or the crowd, had right-of-way. A lot of taxis also took Uber fares, and they seemed very impatient with any pedestrians when they were making right turns.

As for whether or not to smile at people, it was all over the place. I tested out smiling, nodding, a single blink, all to various levels of success. Sometimes people smiled back at me. Maybe they were westerners? A single nod seemed to be the safest bet, but you could also just ignore people you passed in the hotel or on the street. People were all weird in the hotel elevators and mostly pretended to be invisible, but they stood with their back to whichever wall they were near, facing the center of the elevator, not all facing the doors like in America. The only chatty strangers were English people.

Everything is super clean, including the sidewalks and streets. There are three kinds of public transportation, and they never take more than 15 minutes to arrive. It’s very quiet, and I immediately discovered from the stares I received, that I am too loud for the city, and I needed to speak in hushed tones. With free health care, education, and long maternity leaves, it’s a paragon of democratic socialism. People in America complain that they must have to pay too many taxes for all of that, but in reality, the average American pays just as many or more taxes. Sweden really has its shit together. Now, if they could only do something about the winters.

The people all seemed content, if not happy, and Bob’s mom observed, “They aren’t constantly afraid of being invaded,” which was kind of more of a commentary on Latvia.

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Baltic: Cili Pizza in Leipaja

A block away from my hotel was Cili Pica (pizza). Although the hotel included breakfast and we often ate lunch when sightseeing, Bob would head back to his mom’s apartment in the evenings, and I was often wandering around looking for dinner. Cili Pizza was a locals spot, with no one speaking Engliah, and they were irritated with me on my first visit because there was something going on with my credit card. I think it was because it didn’t have the tap function, which we are making sure we have before our next trip. After seeing my genuine curiosity, and either my goofiness or charm, the servers took to me and brought me Coke Zeros while I waited for my to-go orders, which took a really long time. Everyone in Europe is aghast at my consumption of Diet Coke. The long waits gave me ample time to trip out on their childrens’ menus.

They also had interesting giant bugs as part of the interior design.

Their pizza was really good, but too big for just me, so I tried some other menu items, like burgers, and a trippy Baltic dish of deep-fried rye bread with a cheese-mayonnaise garlic sauce (In Lithianian it is called Ķiploku grauzdiņi). It’s translated as garlic bread, so expect a surprise if you order that.

I went once to this shop and had amazing kebab, but it was kind of a long walk.

Most of the time I just window shopped while waiting for my food.

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By the Baltic Sea: Latvian Comfort Food

We went out to eat at a Lithuanian/Latvian place with Bridin’s cousin Aija. The restaurant was named Cepelini, which is also the name of their humongous dumplings. There is some crossover between Baltic cuisines, with a lot of influence from Russia. Also referred to as zeppelins, for obvious reasons, these are traditional Lithuanian potato-meat dumplings. Grated potatoes are formed into giant footballs and stuffed with a variety of fillings, then boiled. Ours were filled with finely chopped bacon and topped with sour cream and additional bits of bacon. Bridin had no idea they would be that large and ordered one for each of us.

Since we didn’t know the zeppelins could be an entire meal, we had ordered even more food, including Kotletes, a classic Latvian dish. Most countries have something similar, from doner to meatballs to meatloaf. The fried minced meat patties usually contain chopped onions, garlic, and other seasonings, plus egg as a binder.

This is karbonade, a thinly pounded pork cutlet that probably is a wiener schnitzel brought by the German invaders, although it is heavily battered rather than given a light crumb coating.

Latvians love dessert soups, and we ordered a variety of light custards in fruit sauces,

This little guy decorated the yard.

Family.

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By The Baltic Sea: That’s Sure a Big Organ!

There was a concert at Liepāja Holy Trinity Cathedral, home to the seventh largest organ in the world. At the time of its creation in 1779, it was the number one largest organ in the world until till 1912 when a bigger instrument was built in Michael’s Church in Hamburg. But, the title of the biggest manual organ in the world still belongs to the organ of Liepāja Holy Trinity Cathedral. The church itself, of the late baroque age, was built in 1758.

Although it is Evangelical Lutheran, the church was very similar to a Catholic church. It was beautiful, gold and gilded, and I enjoyed taking pictures, although they don’t do the place justice. You have to take it all in at once.

There was a gentleman who accompanied the organ for certain songs. I can’t remember any of them offhand because it was such an emotional experience for me. The music was beautiful, and the organ filled the space and reached deep inside you. The hardness of the pew and the ornate surroundings reminded me of my upbringing in the Catholic church, and by extention my mother. Almost exactly two years after her death, the grief was still hitting me hard.

After the concert, I snuck up to the choir loft to check out the organ, and there was a very festive atmosphere after such a successful performance.

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By the Baltic: Liepaja Market

Bob’s mom treated me to a massage, which was awesome, although the massage therapist kept talking about Elon Musk. Maybe I am lucky that not everyone speaks English. Afterwards we went to a little bakery. I was disappointed that there were no fresh baguettes that day. The woman behind the counter said, “You get a day off work, don’t you? So, the baker gets a day off too!”

We walked across the street to the open-air market. The chanterelles were unbelievable! And so cheap! I would eat them with cream every single day if I lived there.

There were ready-made snacks as well as fresh fruit and vegetables.

There was a closed flea market building. I couldn’t resist peeking in the window and saw these strange items for sale.

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By the Baltic: Liepaja Seashore

Bob’s Mom lives in old Soviet Block housing. It’s a bit dreary on the outside, but inside it is safe and cozy. The best part is that it is right across the street from woods and the beach. There is a stream on the other side with swans.

We went to a restaurant in the mall next to the housing called Olive.

It was kind of international fusion. I ordered Thai noodles that were a bit sweet. Bob ordered a seafood salad that came in a big Parmesan tuille.

A nice walk through a safe-feeling copse of trees put us right on the beach in under 10 minutes. The water is very warm. We did not go to the Nudistu Pludmale.

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Liepaja Museum Basement

Turn on your speakers for this post

The basement of the Liepaja Museum holds their antiquities–some of the earliest textiles, metal goods, instruments and pottery.

Ancient pipes

Ancient pipes?

These crowns were made for virgins.

Like this…remember her?

We were in a small room with open shelving displaying ancient jars. Only the three of us fit in the room.

Suddenly, I heard a jar smash, and my heart dropped. I turned to see which of us had had such a shocking accident, only to see this video. That was a terrible, if perhaps accidental, practical joke. But it still makes me laugh.

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The Baltic: Liepaja Museum Textiles

There was an exhibit of early 20th century clothing centered around train travel. I was clearly enamored with the hats.

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By the Baltic: Liepaja 19th Century Interior Museum: Mrs. Hoyer Guest House

The Liepaja Museum is located in a centuries’ old guesthouse with beautiful wooden walls and floors, fireplace and staircase.

There was a wide variety of displays

Some were creepier than others

And some so beautiful

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By the Baltic Sea: Wandering around Liepaja

After the Northern Forts, we went to a nice little lake.

There was a cafe and we had a snack before heading out.

I liked the old buildings and murals as we drove through town.

There is an area downtown with artworks depicting lines from the town’s anthem.

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By the Baltic Sea: Liepaj’s Northern Fortress

Liepāja has always been strategic for battles. It was once home to a navy base, and is the place that the first Latvian government retreated to when pushed out by foreign powers. At the end of the 19th century several cement fortresses were built by Tsarist Russia. At one time, the forts encircled the entire city of Liepaja. In 1919, as Latvia tried to establish an independent republic, the Germans tried to take Latvia by sea. Using the forts, the Latvian army held them off in spite of being heavily outnumbered.

Most of the Liepāja Forts were destroyed in the beginning of the 20th century. The Northern fortifications were blown up twice in attempts to demolish them, but the crumbling facades remain to this day.

The Northern Fort, Fortification battery No. 1., is built on the edge of the Baltic sea. It is open to the public. You can climb around on it, but it is forbidden to enter a structure because it could collapse at any time. It kind of reminds you of being a wayward teen exploring forbidden places, climbing on roofs and things, so it was fun and awesome for photography. Even young children were climbing on top of the forts with their parents.

 

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By the Baltic Sea: Our first day in Liepaja

One of the best things about European hotels is that breakfast is included. It is so nice to just wander down and have a relaxed meal, it saves money, and some people put on a lovely spread. The Art Hotel has its own bakery, so the bread was crusty and the croissants were light as air. They had the European breakfast sausages that remind me of hot dogs, English bacon, and a variety of egg dishes. Like most places they had cold cuts, meusli and yogurt. I wasn’t ready for smoked fish, but I loved the Swedish pancakes!

I explored the area. In the United States, you could tell a dangerous neighborhood by abandoned buildings and graffiti. here they had those things, but it was very safe.

There was also a mall across the square, which was very convenient for stocking the fridge, and a few restaurants behind the hotel and a really cool destination place across the street. The mall even had gelato!

And a very dour busker. (Yes, I did give him money to take his picture).

Since it was Saturday, there was a street market right in front of the hotel! I had a lot of fun wandering around with Bob’s mom.

I was quite taken with this leather hat with cute little horns. The salesman, whose dad makes them, said that local bikers wear them.

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By the Baltic Sea: Art Hotel Roma

The Art Hotel Roma was built in 1881 and has been a hotel since 1882. During WWI it was occupied by the Kaiser’s army. The entire structure is built around a large central square with a much-photographed fountain, and also consists of the hotel’s restaurant, Rosemary, plus a renowned bakery, breakfast room, retail shops and businesses.

This sculpture reminded me of medieval cats

I reserved the “Studio” for 90 Euros because it had a kitchenette with a refrigerator. It was HUGE! But you can get a room for as little as 60 E. Latvia is a very reasonable place to vacation.

The carpeting had a bit of a “Shining” vibe.

And was that a face in the chest of drawers?

Definitely

and faces on the knobs

and faces on the edging. So many little people.

There was art all over the place, in the room, in the halls…

Everyone thought the woman in this painting looked familiar. I finally decided she reminded me of the Mona Lisa.

We sat down for dinner at Rosemary, but the jet lag was hitting me hard and I just went upstairs and crashed. Reports were that the food was excellent.

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by the Baltic Sea: On the Road to Liepaj

It was a four hour drive to Liepaja, and I slept in the back seat for most of the trip. There is one main rest stop, and we took a break there on the way and on the way back. I tried a candyfloss ice cream, which no one over the age of nine could probably eat.

Of course, there were more unusual offerings…like the dreaded herring in a fur coat!

and aspic…

On the way back we ate in the restaurant. I tried the schnitzel, which had an unusual eggy coating.

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By the Baltic Sea: Lido and the Latvian National Gallery in Riga

Friday we went to Lido, a very reasonably-priced cafeteria frequented by locals. The helpings were ridiculous, I had thought America had a lock on giant portions. There were around six fish dishes, even more meat dishes, a giant wok filled with French fries that had stuck together like a fry king, and stuffed pancakes, which are basically blintzes.

Bob’s mom had an interesting catfish dish that was like a crab cake. Bob was very prudent with just a chicken shish, rice and veggies.

I once again proved that I am not responsible enough to navigate a buffet unmonitored. Luckily we all shared. My chanterelles and potatoes were more infused with rich mushroom flavor than anything I have ever eaten. 10/10 would recommend.

Then we meandered over to the National Museum. It was a beautiful building.

The featured display was on Auseklis Bauskenieks, an internationally recognized artist who pioneered Latvian landscape painting in the first part of the 20th century. The entire basement was filled with his haunting landscapes.

As we were walking back to the elevator, a painting in the storage area caught my eye. A provost stopped me as I paused for a snap, and I thought I was in trouble for taking pictures.

But she wanted to guide us to the third floor where more of that artists’ works were on display. Gederts Alias used intense yellows and oranges, which made his paintings instantly recognizable.

I also fell in love with Janis Tidemanis and the vibrant use of color contrasted with black that gave his works a spooky edginess.

Bob’s mom had described Latvian paintings as “kind of European, but not,” and it was very true. They seemed to combine the darkness of Munch with the delicate brushstrokes of Cezanne.

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