Irish Recipes that are NOT corned beef and cabbage

Rather stay in and celebrate St. Patrick’s Day with a quiet dinner at home? Or maybe you need to fill up before a night of serious partying. If corned beef and cabbage isn’t your style, here are a few of my favorite Irish dishes.

Beef Braised in Guinness

1 beef boullion cube (OXO if you got ’em)
2/3 cup hot water
2 pounds chuck or round steak
2 heaping Tablespoons flour
Salt and pepper to taste
2-3 Tablespoons oil.
2 medium onions, chopped
1/2 pound carrots, peeled and cut into 1″ pieces
1/2 teaspoon dried basil
2/3 cup Guinness stout
1 teaspoon honey

Preheat oven to 325 degrees. Grease a large, shallow baking dish. Set aside. In a small bowl, put boullion cube in hot water to dissolve. Set aside.

Cut the beef up into 3″ pieces. Mix the flour with salt and pepper to taste in a shallow bowl or on a plate. Dredge meat in seasoned flour and set aside.

In a large saucepan, heat 1 Tablespoon oil. Saute the onions until soft. Spread onions evenly around the prepared baking dish.

Add up to another Tablespoon oil to the same saucepan. Brown the meat over a medium flame. Arrange the meat in a single layer over the onions (Turn the flame under the saucepan to low). Arrange carrrots around the meat.

There should still be oil in the saucepan. If there is not enough, add up to another Tablespoon (Turn the flame up to medium). Stir in the leftover dredging flour. Cook for a few minutes, stirring constantly.

Add the basil and Guinness, and continue stirring, scraping up any browned bits from the bottom of the pan. Add the honey and dissolved bouillion cube and water. Return to a boil, stirring occasionally, then pour over the meat. Cover baking dish with lid or foil. Cook for 1 1/2 hours.

Dee’s Potato Bread

I am also not a fan of intense soda bread, authentic as it may be. This bread is light, airy, and a specialty of my mother’s.

3 Tablespoons, plus 1 teaspoon sugar
1/2 cup warm water
1 package yeast
3 Tablespoons butter
3/4 cup mashed potatoes
1 cup water (best if you use the water you boiled the potatoes in)
1 cup warm milk
1 1/2 teaspoon salt
6 or 7 cups flour

Add 1 teaspoon sugar to 1/2 cup warm water in a large ceramic or glass bowl. Dissolve yeast in the warm water. Let sit about 5 minutes.

Once yeast is bubbling, add 2 cups flour, remaining sugar, butter, potatoes, cup water, milk, and salt.

Stir for 3 minutes. Add flour, 1/2 cup at a time, just until dough is no longer sticky.

Put dough in an ungreased pan and leave in a warm place.

After 1 1/2 hours, knead bread on a floured surface for about 5 minutes, adding flour as needed.

Allow dough to rest 5 to 10 minutes. Form into rolls (and set in a pan) or a bread loaf (and set on a baking sheet). Let rise for 1 hour.

Bake at 350 degrees for 1 hour for a loaf of bread, 20 to 30 minutes for rolls. The top should be golden brown (knock on the top of the bread and it should sound a little hollow).

(Recipe from Dee Thompson)

Colcannon

Well, I didn’t promise there wouldn’t be any cabbage at all. Use mild baby leeks, or omit the cabbage if you prefer. But it’s not an Irish meal without potatoes.

4 large Russet (brown, baking) potatoes
Salt and pepper
1/4 cup butter
1/2 head cabbage, shredded
1/4 cup whole milk
2 bunches green onions,(white and light green parts only) chopped

Set 2 large pots of water on stove to boil.

Peel potatoes and cut into large pieces. Cook until tender in boiling water with 1/2 teaspoon salt added.

Drain potatoes and return them to the pot. Cook potatoes over low heat a few minutes, shaking the pot constantly, until potatoes are dry. Mash well and set aside.

Meanwhile, boil cabbage in other pot and drain. Melt 1/4 cup butter in the pot. Saute cabbage and green onions in the butter until tender. Stir into mashed potatoes.

Heat milk until barely steaming, but do not boil (scald). Season milk with a little salt and pepper. Stir milk into mashed potatoes and cabbage, mixing well.

Almond Tartlets

These delicious tartlet shells come out a little uneven and “rustic”. The whipped cream will hide the flaws, and believe me, no one has ever complained about them. You will need mini cupcake tins or “tart” pans. I like to use raspberries, but go with the sweetest berries you can find right now.

1/3 cup butter
1/3 cup sugar
1/3 cup ground raw almonds (Coffee grinder or food processor is needed)
Fresh berries
1 pint whipping cream, whipped (without sugar, as the tartlets are very sweet)

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

Cream together butter, sugar, and almonds in a mixer.

Spread 1 teaspoon of mixture along the bottom and up the sides of each cup (the amount may vary depending on the size of your pans). Make sure to cover the bottom of the cup completely.

Bake for 10 minutes or until golden brown.

Let tarts partially cool in pans, but don’t allow them to harden completely before removing them to a wire rack – they are kind of flexible when warm, but delicate when cold.

Top each tartlet with berries and whipped cream immediately before serving.

(Adapted from recipe by Myrtle Allen)

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The Perfect Corned Beef and Cabbage

Many people do not find corned beef and cabbage very appealing. That’s because most people (and most bars) boil the corned beef and vegetables together, resulting in a greasy, unappealing mess. Remember, it is still a brisket, so you want to treat it as such. Imagine throwing a big T-bone into a boiling pot of water; it would taste like crap too. The secret is to cook the corned beef in the oven, and to cook the vegetables separately. That keeps them from becoming greasy.

Corned Beef and Cabbage

1 3-pound corned beef brisket
1/2 onion, sliced
4 whole carrots
6 to 8 boiling (White Rose) potatoes
1/2 cabbage, or whole head of cabbage
1 Tbsp butter
2 Tbsp freshly chopped parsley

Preheat the oven to 300 degrees.

Trim excess fat from corned beef. Stab it all over with a sharp knife. Set in roasting pan. Cover with sliced onion. Pour in 2 or 3 cups of water and sprinkle with the seasoning packet. Cover pan tightly with foil and put in oven.

Cook for at least 3 hours. Check occasionally to see if it needs more water so it doesn’t go dry. You want the meat to be flaking apart.

About an hour before the brisket is done, bring 2 pots of water to a simmer on top of the stove.

Meanwhile, peel potatoes, and slice in half if large. Peel carrots and slice into 2″ or 3″ pieces. Put potatoes and carrots into one of the pots of water. Bring to a boil, then simmer til done. Don’t overdo the potatoes or they will fall apart. Drain, then toss with butter to taste. Sprinkle with parsley to taste if you feel like it.

30 minutes after starting the potatoes and carrots, rinse cabbage. Remove outer leaves of cabbage. Cut off the bottom, and it should break off into leaves. Put the cabbage in the other pot of water. Cook, at a simmer for about 15 minutes. Drain. Change out the water for fresh water. It takes away some of the intensity, and some say gassiness. Return pot to a simmer and cook til done, about 15 more minutes.

Arrange slices of corned beef on plate, along with potatoes, carrots and cabbage. Season vegetables with salt and pepper to taste.

If you have time to cool the brisket, slice across the grain and reheat for perfect slices.

If you are really into the flavor of cabbage, you can cook it with the potatoes.

If you are into the potatoes or cabbage having some of the corned beef flavor, you can add some of the water from the pan in the oven to the vegetables as they cook.

If you must boil it or use a crockpot, start the corned beef first. Change out the water for fresh water to remove some of the greasiness halfway through cooking. Wait to add vegetables about an hour before serving.

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mazatlan sunday

Whenever we asked people where we should go for menudo, they all said, “Pancho’s!” With an exclaimation point. And without a trace of doubt. Pancho’s looked like a giant Denny’s. There was a long line, but it moved swiftly.

Pancho’s. Pancho’s is located south of Suites Las Flores, overlooking the beach, at the end of the Las Cabanas shopping mall. Pancho’s opened with only a couple of tables. The lights would dim every time they hit the blender to make a margarita. But that was long ago. Pancho’s has grown, and grown, and grown again. It’s another local success story.

In the front of the house were samples of all of the breakfast specials. I just about cried when they came and took the menudo away.

There was more Tiki Room decor

You can stave off the hunger while you wait by buying pan dulce from a cart.

The crepes were unusual, stuffed with french toast, which wasin turn stuffed with queso fresca. The cheese was very sour, although Bob liked the strange interplay of flavors. And again with the stewed fruit.

They were sympathetic when they saw my distress over just missing the last of the menudo by that much. I asked if they just had a little broth I could try. Bless their hearts.

It was the best menudo I have ever head. The menudo here in Los Angeles consists of a heavy, smoky, beefy broth heavy on the chiles. This was a light chicken broth strongly tasting of fresh hominy and the lightest touch of tripas. It was delicious. Next time we’ll have to get there earlier.

When I went in search of the powder room I discovered the giant hall we were seated in was matched by another giant hall. And an upstairs covering the entire expanse of the building. No wonder that liine moved so quickly. And no wonder they ran out of menudo.

There was a panaderia attached to the restaurant

With some trippy cakes

I had spent the morning watching our last sunrise on the beach. I don’t know why there were easy chairs on the restroom roof

The skies reminded me of impressionist paintings

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Mazatlan Saturday: Isla de Piedras

We ate leftover sandwiches Saturday from the market for breakfast. The “Cuban” was weird — some kind of hotdog-like sausage with very sweet pork. It was slathered with a mayo-cheese nacho texture sauce. The Zurich was better, made with ham, turkey and gruyere cheese on a baguette.


We took a local ferry over to the Isla de Piedras – Stone Island – instead of taking a cheesy “Watneys Red Barrel” tour. Like when tourists talk about getting away from the tourist traps and seeing the real country – well this was getting right down to the real nitty gritty.

The ferry was tiny little boat that was floating very low in the water. We happened to get on a boat with a funeral party. Is that a bad omen?

Once on the isla, we checked out the map and started walking.

And walking, and walking. There were a lot of abandoned buildings, stray chickens and pitbulls. I had no idea if it was going to be half a mile or 10 miles to the tourist beach.

I noticed a boat on a dock with an unlucky name I had to photograph.

While on the dock, a party boat pulled up. We asked how far to the malecon (maricon, heehhee). The next thing you know, we’re swept up on the umm, “party tractor” with a bunch of college kids from Mexico City who were continuously chanting “Hey hey hey!” It was better than being stranded out in the middle of nowhere with stray rabid pitbulls.

We hit Restaurant Cardon, which had a long stretch of deserted beach. I felt like I was in a Corona commercial. They had a boat for rent, but unfortunately the sea was too churned up and the visibility to low for snorkeling.

The boat could also tow an inflatable “banana” thing that held four riders. No one wanted to suffer the indignity, not even the chanting teens. I decided the amount of tequila it would take to make it seem like a good idea was directly proportional to the amount of tequila it would take for me to fall off and be lost forever at sea.

Stray dogs wandered past, children swung a baby in a hammock, and a chicken ran around the restaurant pissing off the cooks who could never quite shoo it away for good.

The water was shallow quite a ways out, and it was fun just hanging out alone in the ocean letting the waves gently lift me off my toes and set me back down. Something pinched my little toe. Maybe I just got my toe stuck in a little tiny shell. But I really had to shake a leg to free myself.

We settled in for a lazy lunch back at the palapa. The fish tacos were unusual in that the fish was battered, fried, and then smashed into the tortilla like you would make a quesadilla, then the fillings – the usual liberal sprinkling of queso fresco, lettuce, and salsa were sprinkled on top.

Peel and eat shrimp

The traditional dish of Isla de Piedras is Fish Zarandeado. You split the fish in half and grill it.

I sniffed around to find the fish grill around back, but other than filleting, there was no action.

I asked the fish man what the fish was called. He said, “Macho.”

I asked, “Como ti?” to see if he was kidding.

He laughed and said, “Si. Como yo” with an ironic surprise that made me think he had not been thinking of that before. Later the waiter told me the fish was “mulleck”. So my final answer would have to be mullet, Alex.

One source said it is brushed with soy sauce but I couldn’t taste it. All I could taste was flaky, meaty, smoked goodness. That was the best fish I’ve eaten in a long time, especially when eaten with your fingers while your feet rest in the sand.

You can also order it fried. Here they are frying the fish

I decided drinking coconut milk from one of the coconuts piled up might be a good idea. My waiter said they weren’t at their best, but the milk was OK. He suggested a “coco loco” to liven it up. OK, what the hell. This was definitely a going with the flow day.

I watched the bartender pour in tequila, lime, beer, salt, and a little grenadine. Then he decorated it like it was a Mardi Gras float. Then they served it with a “sidecar” that was an entire pitcher to refill the coconut! I said, “I didn’t order this.”

They pointed to the coconut drink and said, “That’s the coco…” then pointed to the pitcher of tequila and danger and laughed, “and that’s the LOCO!!!” OK, I can deal with a humiliating tourist drink and not lose my dignity. But I was not in the mood to get trashed and start yelling, “hey hey hey!” so I only drank about 2/3 of a coconut. That is the official measuring system of Gilligan’s Island.

Not really sure of what to do next, we made a deal with the tour guide and soon were back on the party tractor. Hey! Hey! Hey!

Then onto the party boat. Hey! Hey! Hey!

We assumed we’d catch our own taxi, but ended up on the party taxi too. Hey! Hey! Hey! The driver didn’t want to hang a u-turn before heading to the hotel, so he surprised them by telling them to get out on the wrong side of the busy boulevard. I was a little concerned about their safety. But it seems that a group of teenage girls jumping up and down shouting, “Hey! Hey! Hey!” stops traffic faster than any crossing guard.

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Mazatlan Friday: El Centro

We went down to El Centro, the historic area of Mazatlan. First I wanted to try to photograph the cathedral. Traffic was bad, and worsened by a bizarre little marketing parade. This character, seen all over town, appears to be your friendly neighborhood pharmacist.

So by the time we hit the cathedral it was golden hour, which was nice for those photos, but it made the rest of our sight-seeing a race against the sun.

Luckily, once my taxi driver knew what I wanted, he zoomed around on a mission, hitting every old, decrepit building in town. He knew just what to go for, New Orleans style grande dames with crumbling facades and broken windows.

The driver overestimated my Spanish and started giving a very indepth tour. I did catch something about a hospital, that’s about it.

Then the cabbie said, “I have a friend. He is Cuban. He likes Christmas. I thought, “What does that have to do with anything?” and then we pulled up here. Score. I love this cabbie! He had the exact same streak of weird that I did.

Then we hit the Mercado Municipal, which is famous for upsetting tourists. Count me in! Pigs look very happy, like they get them drunk and slowly sing them to sleep as the gently rock them to death. Cows, however, do not go gently into this good night. A skinned, bloody cow head with protruding eyeballs definitely made me look away. I just could not photograph that. No way. Be grateful.

By now we were a bit peckish and I started checking out the stands. I thought these were gooseberries. What were they? If I don’t know what it is, I have to eat it. I chose the ones not covered with salt, lime and chile. I thought that meant they were unspiced – not intense. I was wrong. What I popped in my mouth was the most sour and salty thing I have ever experienced — an explosion of tartness. Akkkkkkk!!! I tried to make Bob eat one and he was like, “Fuck No” It had 2 pits in it. I still don’t know what it is.

In the Mercado we were looking for old CDs and I swear to god, a rat as big as a chihuaha rushed along the edge of the wall. All I said was, “Woah” and the lady asked, “Raton?” She knew. I mean, that was one impressive rat. Later a child freaked out so I looked over and she had spotted the king of roaches. Not as big as the one I saw parading down Bourbon street once, but definitely bigger than downtown LA roaches.

It seemed like a good time to leave, so we took a little golf cart taxi over to Plazuela Machado. Pedro y Lola was the obvious choice. You need a reservation for the patio, but inside the restaurant it is virtually empty. The only thing you miss out on is balloon hats and pan flute music.

The deep fried cheese with apricot sauce was heavenly

We had the Pedro Infante, a pork dish from Pedro’s family recipe. It was exquisite, with potatoes and peppers, served in a molcajete that made it appear much more generous than it actually was.

They are known for their banana cream pie, that was rich and caramelized. No matter what I said they would not give up the secret.

I got a little apricot on my shirt. There was a ladies room attendant and when she saw my predicament she totally took over. She grabbed 2 paper towels and started scrubbing the hell out of my shirt as if she were my mother. Within minutes, the stain was gone and my shirt was relatively dry. Now that’s service. I didn’t have my purse, so I ran out and ran back to tip her 500 pesos.

Pedro & Lola. This restaurant honors the memories of Pedro Infante and Lola Beltran. Pedro & Lola is in Old Mazatlan at the corner of Carnaval and Constitucion, and it is the cornerstone of the refurbished Plaza Machado, a destination of and by itself. The Angela Peralta Theater is practically adjacent to the restaurant. Pedro & Lola offers sidewalk tables shaded by trees, open archways into the restaurant, paintings by local artists, live music most evenings, and an interesting menu featuring Mexican and international cuisine. The streets surrounding Plaza Machado are closed to traffic in the evening, Thursday, Friday and Saturday. Tables and chairs from Pedro & Loa, and surrounding restaurants, are on the sidewalk, in the street, and occasionally spilling into the Plaza. Don’t miss it. Pedro & Loa is open daily from 5:45 pm to 1 am.

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Mazatlan Thursday: Dive for your Life

Thursday we had a mellow day, starting with room service. Again with the magical mystery cups.

Everyone insisted that we see the cliff diver. It didn’t sound that amazing, but I’m not a lie-by-the-pool kind of traveler, so we headed over. It wasn’t a cliff. It was a ruin, wayyyy too close to the beach. The same family dives here. If you dive when the waves are out, you will probably die. There were rocks submerged just below the water. You have to time it just right so the waves are in and the water is deep enough. It made it much scarier than your average cliff diver.

Plus there is an intense proximity. Like someone walking the high wire in the Big Top isn’t impressive, but if someone walked across your clothesline you’d be pretty damn impressed. I think we gave him 20 bucks if I remember correctly, then another five or ten as a tip for letting me tape him.

I’m glad he didn’t die on my 20 bucks because that would make me responsible. I’d rather be part of a crowd tipping him. Like Shirley Jackson’s The Lottery or firing squad, no one person has to carry the burden of culpability.

We ate dinner at Playa Bruja’s Mr Lionoso. I didn’t realize they had 2 for 1 margaritas. Their ceviche not as good as at El Memin and the lobster was overcooked.

But the giant cheese-stuffed bacon-wrapped shrimp were out of this world.

The atmosphere was charmingly tropical in a Tiki Room sort of way. A panflute player serenaded us with what sounded like early Beegees, and I would swear one song was The Sultans of Swing.

The interesting outdoor tropical décor was enhanced by the location right on the beach. At one point a toddler wearing water wings and little else came tunning up from the beach. My first instinct was, “One escaped! Throw it back into the water, quick!

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Mazatlan Wednesday: Tortugas

Wednesday I finally started acting like I was on vacation and had brunch by the pool.

In addition to the usual breakfast treats there were really good marlin empenadas. They were cooked with lots of pasilla in a lardilicious flaky pastry crust that was similar to Cuban pastels.

We had lunch at El Bambu, which is known for their cabreria skirt steak special. The queso fundido arrived topped with an intense and smoky chorizo.

I made the mistake of ordering my steak medium rare. There really should have only been one option – charry. The medium rare was chewy and bland.

But the well done was nice and charred and flavorful.

They were playing that cool old Mexican music that sounds like it should have been played in the circus in the 20s. But we were divided by the language barrier and there was no name for the music other than “the old music”. I should have just stolen the casette tape.

We went to the local Aquarium and watched a man molest a nurse shark and sea turtle.

This bone looks like a giant mask

There was a little museum like the Cabrillo Museum used to be….like a museum of everything that has ever washed up on the beach.

I asked the people at the aquarium if they knew where they liberate the sea turtles. She told me to wait but after a bit another woman came out with a familiar cooler and a familily trailing behind. So I just started following them We walked down a quiet street, passed a lake, and walked up a big hill. We started hoping I had not misread the situation.

But we finally arrived on the beach and were able to free the turtles and watch them awkwardly toddle off into the sunset.

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Why these Mexico posts aren’t done yet

Here’s what I’ve been up to:

DineLA

Oscars Governors Ball Preview

What would Obama eat?

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Mazatlan Tuesday: Bat Country

Next the tour bus took us to a little town called El Quelite for lunch. And so much more. Now, this is where things started getting weird. Like Hunter S Thompson bat country weird. The tour guide was going on about witches, ancient rites of the Aztecs and indiginous cannibals in the mountains. Then he asked the group, “You like cockfights?”

Everyone was taken aback. One person said haughtily, “Those are illegal in the United States.

He said, “Yeah, they’re illegal here too” and laughed a creepy laugh. As we passed a bullfighting ring he told us about the quail farm behind it. Animals do not fare well around here. Or to put a positive spin on it, you could say that people are eating “local.” That’s some seriously fresh food.

One of the main features of El Quelite is this statue. It is of an ancient game like hackey sack or soccer, but you can only use your hips to touch the ball. I hope they had ancient athletic cups.

Next we hit a panaderia, not exactly an unfamiliar sight for an Angeleno. But I had never seen an oven like this, so the visit was cool. And who doesn’t love pan dulce?

There was an interesting “burnt sugar turnover. It is like blackstrap molasses. It rises so fast the sugar adheres to the pastry leaving an empty center.

Then we walked along the town.

I swear to you, I do not seek out cemeteries. They just seem to always be there. It was a few weeks after Dia de los Muertos, so everything had a fresh new coat of white paint.

As I was taking photos of the cemetery, I started hearing roosters. Oh no! He didn’t! He did. The tourists all blanched, like when you have accidentally gotten yourself in way over your head. Like you are in some kind of nightmare and can’t get out. The discomfort was palpable to everyone but the tour guide.

He asked, “Who wants to see a cock fight, hunh?” trying to get everyone excited. They all looked from one to the other. Half these people were probably going to eat chicken that day. Half of them were wearing leather. Really, at what point does it become hypocrisy?

He asked again, “Come on! Who wants to chicken fight???”

To lighten the mood, I said, “I’ll take one on! Strap one of those knives on my feet! I’ll fuck these chickens up!”

Surprisingly that did not help.

Really, it’s much more humane to use the knives so it is a quick, clean kill instead of letting the chickens hack at each other in a painful, drawn-out battle to the death. But I have to admit it’s kind of messed up the way he’s showing off this knife so proudly.

At this point, the guide finally noticed everyone’s discomfort. He started trying to defend the sport of cockfighting. He insisted the roosters love it; it’s in their nature; they aren’t forcing them to do anything they don’t want to do. Then he actually walked over to one of the roosters and started trying to kick it! And that rooster went apeshit. He kicked and the rooster pecked and flapped, and I thought, “I can’t believe I am watching this guy fight a fucking chicken.”

Finally, after everyone was sufficiently freaked out we meandered over to the restaurant for lunch. It was a bit of a tourist trap, but that meant bright and safe-feeling with clean bathrooms. The group was needing the security of colorful woven tablecloths at this point in the tour.

Meson de los Laureanos is named after Jose Laureano, a local folk hero.

The tour guide had described the local dishes to us on the tour, “Machaca, that is beef, carnitas is pork, pollo is chicken, and birria, that is beef.” When I picked up the menu, I immediately checked the translations. Because sometimes it is birria de res, but it’s often birria de chivo, or goat. The menu items all described the animal, except for Birria. It said, “A Mexican specialty.” As in special Mexican goats?

As usual, I was unable to choose just one dish and asked if they wouldn’t mind making me a “mixed” platter. Clockwise from top right: Lamb, Goat (?), and Beef. They cooked it barbecue-style, then stewed it in a sauce. Mmmmmm. The lamb was a little gamey, but I loved the goat. It was not “wild” or weird or gamey. It was perfect. The beef was very good, but the birria goat, err, uhhh, “beef” was my favorite.

Since there was a quail farm nearby, we thought we would try the fresh quail. I had always heard complaints about the little bones, but it was no different than hot wings. And they were so succulent and light – not gamey, and not like chicken, better than chicken. I love quail now – at least super fresh quail.

Hmmm

On the way there and back we crossed the Tropic of cancer – my first time!

After such an eventful day, we took it easy and ordered a simple dinner from room service. Sinaloa supplies most of the tomatoes for the United States, and it really showed. It seems like they pick the fruits and vegetables closer to ripe than we do, but they also sell them a little longer than we do too, as I was to learn in the Old Town Market later in the week.

I was completely freaked out when I tried to eat my chicken soup. It took me a second to realize it had clear plastic wrap tightly wrapped around the bowl.

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Mazatlan Tuesday: Tequila!

We start the morning off sensibly enough with chilaquiles from room service. Do I even need to tell you that they totally kick ass?

Even American breakfast came with chilaquiles and magic tortilla cups.

From the minute we stepped on the tour bus there was screaming from the ugly Americans – Cranky Guy was hollering that they were just gonna get off the bus and screw the whole thing if they were going to cram 2 more people in there.

I do not have good luck with tour buses.

We were driven for an hour along deserted dirt roads populated with black buzzards, vultures, crosses marking deaths in the road and homes with private backyard cemeteries.

Then it was all blue agave

After the agave is hacked up, you are left with the pina.

The pina is cooked in underground kilns.

At this point you can chew on it and extract the agave juice which is seriously addicting. Seriously. And maybe a hallucinogen. The jury is still out. But later that night this is what I wrote while chewing it:

It kind of looks like horses hooves made out of beef jerky. You chew and suck on the fibers and they release their sweet nectar. There is something light and sweet molaases and honey, masking something darker, a slight sensation of alcohol and sex in a smoky room. I wasn;t paying too much attention to what the tour guide was saying at this point, but it wasn;t rae agave pina. Later I asked if I could take some with me, which appeared to be an unusual request. They said to be careful with it so it wouldn’t spoil or ferment. So what I have is definitely not fermented. I wonder if I can get it through customs, or if the bees trailing my bags will be a dead giveaway.

I tried to take pictures following the pipes so my friends back home could follow the process, but I kept getting disctracted by scary machinery and things on fire

At first I thought this was some kind of torture device. But then my brother explained to me that it was part of a pulley system to power this torture device with teeth that you can see in the videos above.

I liked this cog for no special reason.

I still don’t know what this is

Production:

And what happens in this room?

Oh, sorry, mister

Then it was time to drink

The horses had big dents in their heads that kind of freaked me out

The factory owner stuck his thumb in it to show me it was OK

Now there goes a real cowboy

Back through the agave fields. On the trip there, the guide told us about the local flora and fauna, and how the state of Jalisco had a copyright on the word tequila, so it’s kind of like Champagne. But on the way back, maybe the tequila had gotten to him. He started telling long stories about cannibals and brujas. This is a plant brujas use to dry up your brain.

Woman on tour to husband: what’s a brujas?
Husband: You know honey, a brewhaus, like those German places where they sell beer

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How Tequila is Made

Remember those Sesame Street factory tours like How Crayons are Made and the visit to The Peanut Butter Factory? That’s kind of what today’s post is going to be like. Let’s go on a tour!!!

First,a wild ride through the blue agave fields

After the stalk yields seeds and everything is cut away, you are left with the agave pinas. They are full of sweet sap that attracts bees, hornets and butterflies. When the camera moves away and you hear air blowing, that’s me spitting out a butterfly.

They cook the agave pina in underground kilns. At this point you can chew on it and suck out the syrup. While everyone else was buying bottles of tequila, I went back and got a bunch of the pure agave for 5 bucks and a kiss on the cheek. They used to use mules to squeeze the agave. Now they have really scary machinery.

The agave hemp is put into these big barrels and allowed to ferment for 9 to 10 days unless they use a starter. I’m getting kind of bored and put my finger in front of the lens for part of this section. Sorry. Num num num num.

The distillation process and a taste of the weak first distillation.

135 proof tasting makes my camera spin

Did someone actually yell, “Yeeehaaa!” ?

Things start to get really weird on this tour. Stay tuned.

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It’s the most wonderful time of the year!!!

Oh my God! I am hysterical! That latte probably didn’t help.

To some people Thanksgiving is one of their favorite days, but for me, today is the day. I have a giant, sparkling clean kitchen all to myself. My garden is full of herbs, my fridge is packed with gorgeous produce, and I have all day to go crazy!

I feel like an actor about to go out on stage. I love the pressure. Plus this year we have a new relative (Hi Ainsley!) and some new guests (Hi random Scottish people!) to impress. So we have to put on a really big show! With fireworks! And a chorus line!

This writer on Slate has a world-weary take on the holiday. The writer frets that no one wants to try their exciting new recipes because there will be mutiny if time-honored traditions aren’t followed.

In our house, you are allowed to get weird with the side dishes. The year we smoked the turkey is the only year anyone caused a ruckus, but I loved it. For a few years we had 2 turkeys – one roasted, one smoked, before the traditionalists won out. As long as we have a turkey, mashed potatoes and stuffing, we can go all Gourmet Magazine on the side dishes – and I do. The only thing they will not tolerate is any form of yams.

As for running out of ideas, I’ve been blogging for less than 2 years, so I haven’t had time to use up my good stuff yet. I’m still teaching beginners. I have not even exhausted my repetoire of side dishes.

Now let’s get out there, roll up our sleeves and cook the fuck out of this holiday!!!

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Mazatlan Monday: Senor Frog is the Antichrist

The last few weeks back home have been kind of hectic, so it was time to take an actual vacation-vacation where I am not running from museums to nightclubs and back. At least for today. We slept late, or at least we tried to sleep late. The fanged timeshare jackals kept calling to “confirm” our attendance at the welcome breakfast to which I had repeatedly told them “NO”.

I listen to people talk for a living. The last thing I want to do is listen to a presentation. I cannot be lured with false promises and free bacon. I don’t care if the jackals wrap cute boys in crispy bacon and let me eat it off of their quivering young bodies.

Speaking of bacon, we ordered room service and were surprised by the quality of the food – even if there were a few quirks.

The Pepito de arrachera (skirt steak), my favorite Mexican sandwich, definitely delivered (although I will confess, La Finisterra’s in Cabo had a much more tender steak).

The steak in the fajitas was fine. But the plates introduced what would become a theme – the little tortilla cups of surprise. Sometimes they hold side dishes, sometimes they hold condiments. Once they held some kind of cheese soufflé thing.

The flan was so good I didn’t want to share it, but finally gave it up. But what is up with the weird stewed white cherries here?

The time share jackals called like 4 more times to confirm this or that. I finally awoke from a nap and picked up the phone, “I came here for a quiet, relaxing vacation. I really wanted to buy a time share but now you’ve changed my mind.” We were going to stop for ice cream, but you kids were bad, so now you don’t get any.

Monday night the resort held a “fiesta” for the American tourists. OK, this is normally the last place I would be caught dead at. Considering I love tacky tourist attractions like alligator farms or the world’s biggest ball of string, I hate tourist activities. The belly of the beast here in Mexico is Senor Frogs. There are actually 2 Senor Frogs stores on the same block – they own this part of Mazatlan – it is like Pottersville. Actually it is like Americatown. Senor Frogs is made for people who want to travel to other countries without ever having to leave America.

On the other side of the coin are the people who say, “Be a traveler, not a tourist.” It has become kind of cliche and comes to mind when I see things like those federales in black hoods waving their AK-47s around. Then it’s time to holler “Soy tourista!”

I guess I am somewhere in the middle. I am not going to get my hair braided with shells and have some guy in a sombrero pour tequila in my mouth and spin me in circles. But I also don’t hitch-hike or wear dreds, and I am very attached to flush toilets.

24-hour room service, in-room jacuzzis and WiFi are bonuses I would not turn down in the name of being a traveler. Unless they destroyed the local ecosystem or something. And then definitely not. Except for the flush toilets – I don’t care what they do to the environment.

So back to the fiesta del timeshare… normally, not my thing. But I could smell the food and hear the talented mariachis and so, what the hell. If nothing else, there would be free beer and margaritas in there.

The buffet consisted of a row of about 6 pots, a giant hotplate and a dessert table. The pinto beans here are very pale, almost white. I lifted a spoonful of what looked to be only peppers from a big cauldron, and asked, “Frijoles?”
The guy said, “Pintos”
I misheard him and asked, bewildered, “Puntos?”
He misheard me and asked, shocked, “Putas??? NO!!!”

There was a very tender fish veracruz, and one of the best moles I have ever eaten — dense, complex, and not the slightest bit bitter.

fish veracruz:

I spent most of my time hanging out with the old ladies at the dessert table who had an unusual array of tarts and fruits in syrup. There was one tart with no fruit, just a mysterious almost savory herb. One lady was very proud of her rice pudding, so I added a little of that to my already overbalanced plate.

Growing up Catholic in Los Angeles, I have attended my share of fiestas. I have always loved ballet folklorico. Maybe it’s because it is the land of its birth, maybe it’s because the market more competitive, but for whatever reason, the dancing and music was amazing. This 9-piece mariachi band OWNED that stage. The usual Guantanimera and Cielito Lindo were getting to me so I handed up a tip and a request. La Barca del Oro slowed everything to a standtill. People were disquieted by the sudden change of pace. Except for me. It was like a blue spotlight was shining just on me.

Yo ya me voy al puerto donde se halla
La barca de oro que debe conducirme.

Yo ya me voy solo vengo a despedirme,
Adios, mujer, adios, para siempre adios.

No volveran tus ojos a mirarme,
Ni tus oidos escucharan mi canto.

Voy a aumentar los mares con mi llanto,
Adios, mujer, adios, para siempre adios.

La Barca de Oro is one of the saddest songs in the world. I fucking love this song! Go rent Santa Sangre. Watch that movie and it will all make sense. Or you will be horrified and stop being my friend. It is kind of a controversial film.

Dancing with rusty machetes – what could go wrong?

And then they danced with machetes wearing blindfolds.

I decided to wander back early, and missed Bob being dragged up on stage for a competition with a host of other suckers, ummm, guests. The “competition” seems to have involved humiliating oneself with mime and Spanish rhymes while drinking copious amounts of tequila. Whatever it was exactly, Bob won. Now every time we walk through the lobby someone will yell to Bob, “The Winner!!!” like they are old drinking buddies.

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Mazatlan Sunday: Pulpo para vida!

OK, so Cabo is still a work in progress. It is on the backburner while I do some serious research. Meanwhile, I am in Mazatlan. There are also baby turtles on this trip, so I hope it won’t be confusing if we meander over to Mazatlan and then continue with Cabo later. I know you guys can keep up. Do not let the turtles confuse you. We’re not in Cabo anymore, Dorothy.

Travel went very smoothly today until we got to the shuttle for the Mayan Gardens. The driver insisted we were not on his list. It seemed a simple thing to just call the front desk and check, but he just refused. I looked around at the big impatient group of red-faced “ugly Americans” in tennis caps and decided I would rather suck it up and cab it alone than be stuck in a churning hot van of discontent.

I picked the first cabbie that I felt like I could trust, agreed on a fare, and left the whining tourists behind. I offered to buy our cabbie lunch if he would take us to his favorite place, not to a restaurant he thought tourists would like.

He has a little bit of trouble choosing since so many places are closed on Sunday, or just open in the morning for menudo and then close the doors for the rest of the day. Well, he picked a bad-ass place, El Memin. It was like a huge open-air market, and was bustling with customers – always a good sign, even on a Sunday when it may have been the only place open.

I immediately fell in love with “El Memin” the “Crazy Eddie” of camarones. Sinaloa is famous for its shrimp, and I couldn’t wait to try it. I asked the driver if the shrimp were caught out here and gestured towards the ocean. He said “No, no, not here. A little further down. Over there” and he gestured about another mile south.

The only thing I didn’t recognize on the menu was jaiba. The driver was at a loss to describe it and the waiter made really strange monster-like gestures. I drew a variety of sea creatures, each of which caused them to shake their heads so I just went ahead and ordered a small tostada de jaiba.

We split an order of shrimp and octopus ceviche that was heavenly. The shrimp and octopus were so tender – especially unusual for the purple tentacles of the octopus. Bob said he could eat the octopus every day for the rest of his life. When I interpreted that to the driver he laughed, “Pulpo – por vida!”

We also split an order of fried shrimp, nice, perfect, but not mind-boggling like the pulpo. It was inexplicably served with pasta in a pesto-cream sauce and wedding reception-style boiled vegetables.

I had ordered the Camarones Memin since I figured it must be the house specialty. Plus the picture showed an insane da-glow green dish, like a 1950s dessert.

Oh my God, it was amazing! And it really was that crazy green! The closest thing I can compare the Memin sauce to would be the Peruvian condiment known as aji. There was a little mayonnaise in there, but it did not detract from the flavor. The shrimp were tender and abundant at only 8 dollars. Along with rice, the shrimp were accompanied by sliced sautéed peppers, not too hot, but just hot enough. I would guess pasillas, but who knows how many different peppers they must have down here?

The jaiba was crab – which it seems like I used to know at one time. It was very fresh, but wasn’t very flavorful, so I spiked the hell out of it with lime and hot sauce.

Beer in the sky keeps on turning. Don’t know where I’ll be tomorrow

While waiting for a light, a contingent of federal soldiers passed by, crammed into open truck beds, with faces hooded in black like executioners and armed with semi-automatics. It was a little reminder that it is not all pina coladas and mariachi bands here. Sinaloa is relatively safe, but there is some strife nearby with indigenous peoples. And this area is the birthplace of the narcocorrido after all.

When we arrived at the time share I was pleasantly surprised. It is much swankier and well kept-up than the website and online photos led me to believe. The room is spacious, and there are even burners and pots so I can go to the local market and cook – something I always want to do when traveling.

However, this place is not set up for a person of my schedule. The swimming pool (no Jacuzzi here) closes at 8pm. The restaurant closes at 10pm, the bar at 11. On.Sunday the market stops selling beer at 2pm. Also, there is no wireless or in-room-connection and the business center closes at midnight. I will do my best under the primitive conditions.

I was relieved we didn’t invite another couple along when I saw the miniscule size of the second bedroom.

It is a time share, so we got the hard sell from the get-go. They tried showing us around the facilities as if it were the usual “welcome tour” I am wise to your games, missus. They rescinded their earlier promise to pay for the taxi from the airport since their shuttle service screwed up, and now made recompense contingent on us attending “the welcome breakfast”. You can’t lure me into your trap with bacon. I’m not saying there is not enough bacon in the world to lead me astray, but it would have to be more bacon than you have here for sure.

There is a food festival going on in Puerto Vallarta right now. It looks to be a 7 hour bus ride away and there are no trains or boats. The only flights go through Mexico City and cost more than this trip, so maybe next year. For now I will put my feet up and enjoy where I am. In fact, I think I’m going to go jump in the ocean right now.

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My Catalina Story

I`m on vacation having more adventures right now, so to keep you safe and off the streets, here is a story I wrote up a few years ago.

When I was a child, my family frequently made the trouble-frought journey to Catalina island on my father’s pride and joy: an old Chinese junk held together with good intentions and rubberbands. It was so slow, its Chinese name translated into “The Flying Snail”. But sailing on the junk was magical. The sea and sky went on forever. Blue whales and flying fish would swim alongside the boat as seagulls soared overhead. Normal daily habits and rules of behavior did not apply on the boat. It was a discipline-free zone. The only rule on the Flying Snail was “One hand for yourself; one hand for the boat.”

My father was forced to sell his junk when I was seven, so most of my memories of Catalina are a random jumble of those things children find memorable. I remember one weekend when I ate nothing but dry Fruity Pebbles straight out of the box, and I once ate an entire package of Dutch chocolate sprinkles for lunch. I remember swimming in the frigid water and using marshmallows for fishing bait. I remember the spray of salt water and the permeating smell of fuel from the outboard motor. I remember the stench of the bilge and the damp weight of the lifejackets. I remember the gentle rocking of the waves and the swinging Chinese lanterns belowdeck.

When I was older, my parents and I would take the Catalina ferry to go snorkeling off of the Casino. And sometimes I boarded it for school field trips to the little town of Avalon. The Catalina ferry is the most horrible, lurching carnival ride of a boat in existence. It could make the most hardy of sailors hurl. It is the only boat that has ever made me queasy. The ocean playground of my childhood had been reduced to an unpleasant, nauseating trip to a little strip of shops filled with tourist junk. I just stopped going to Catalina altogether. That was twenty years ago.

I was recently gifted with two round-trip tickets for a helicopter ride to Catalina. Last Thursday my mother and I took advantage of the voucher for an overnight trip. I was a little nervous about taking the helicopter. But I had no need to be worried. I’ve had scarier elevator rides. I thought, “I took a Xanax for this?” It was a gorgeous trip. As I looked out over the great blue expanse, I asked my mother if it had been nerve-wracking keeping track of five small children on a rickety boat in the middle of the ocean. She quickly replied, “No. Not at all.” After a moment of hesitation, she added, “The only time I ever felt like a bad mother was when your brother fell in.”

We had to share a cab from the helipad to our hotel. The guy sitting “shotgun” had his window rolled down and I was getting blown away by the wind. I gently touched his arm (to indicate that I was speaking to him, and not to the driver) and asked, “Do you mind rolling your window up part way?” He completely freaked out, hissing venemously, “Don’t touch me!! Don’t you ever touch me again!!!” I recoiled, “Woah. Sorry.” Maybe he had brittle-bone disease or something.

But my fiesty 70-year-old mother wasn’t going to let him speak to her daughter that way, “And I thought I was grumpy!” she exclaimed, “Just praise the Lord there aren’t many more out there like him!” After enduring ten minutes of a silent, icy ride, I mumbled to my mother, “We’re in this island paradise and now I’m in a bad mood.” She replied loudly, “Well, you never know what people might really be upset about. Maybe his wife beats him. Or maybe she DOESN’T” I’m not sure if it was the invocation of our good Lord Jesus Christ or the accusation of Sado-masochistic tendencies that made him ask the driver to drop him off right there.

The Canyon Resort and Spa was actually a motel, with an Escher-like labyrinth of stairs going every which way up and down the courtyard and a seriously unwelcoming pool area. Since we had arrived well before check-in time, we relaxed in the café. Still a little shaken by our uncomfortable cab ride, I ordered a mimosa. They brought it to me in a pint glass.

We called my brother, who frequently sails to Catalina, and asked him for recommendations. “Well, first, you have to get your Wiki Wacked!!! You have to go to Luau Larry’s!”. Now, I had been specifically warned that Luau Larrys was a tourist trap. But there are some touristy activities, such as wearing Micky Mouse ears or getting a hurricane at Pat ‘O Briens, that have become such time-honored traditions they surpass their own cheesiness and become obligatory. When we passed Luau Larry’s we went in for the requisite Wiki Wacker. It didn’t seem watered down, and in conjunction with a pint of Mimosas, I was now officially wacked.

As we wandered along the row of restaurants at water’s edge, we happened upon El Galleon, which looked like an nice classic Italian restaurant. Inside, it had a crazy hodge podge of a decor marrying New Orleans and Tiki Room with a nautical flair. Mardi Gras beads, winches, glass floats and fishing nets hung from the ceiling. Mounted on one wall was an “Alligator Bass”, a hideous Frankenstein of a practical joke, an alligator head fused onto the body of a fish. But the brick walls gave the room a warm feeling, and the old-fashioned wooden booths were comfortable and comforting. El Galleon’s current owners bought the restaurant in 1993, but its actual age was unclear from the printed history, which seemed to imply it had been around since the days of William Wrigley. The menu was not Italian, as I had surmised, but a combination of seafood steakhouse and barbecue. There were some modern touches sprinkled in, such as Panko crumbs and Jasmine rice.

We started our meal with the fried artichoke hearts, which were spectacular. Sprinkled with capers, they rested in a lake of melted butter. I could taste the high quality of the olive oil in which they had been friend.

We continued our meal with cups of scallop chowder. The broth was rich with butter and cream, but the scallops were soft and bland. I missed the toothsome chewiness of clams. The entrée was a more difficult choice. When eating in an unfamiliar restaurant, I usually try to suss out their specialty. Failing that, I look for the unusual. They had a “scalone” sandwich, a combo of friend abalone and scallops (I was later told it is a combo of baby abalone from Mexico and all kinds of random shit). But we were informed that the abalone was frozen, in spite of the tank of live abalone at the entryway. Those abalone are reserved for the dinner special.

The waiter recommended Applewood Smoked BBQ Chicken, but I was too intrigued by the “burnt ends” sandwich. It turned out to be bits of succulent tri-tip and ham in an intense Hawaiian-inspired plum BBQ sauce. The sauce overwhelmed the tri-tip, but with the ham it was a match made in porcine heaven.

After a massage and nap back at the Canyon “Resort”, we headed back out for dinner. Although the fresh abalone at El Galleon beckoned, upon first awakening I am just not ready for unfamiliar seafood.

We went to the much-recommended Armstrongs. There was a huge crowd, but luckily most of the patrons wanted to sit out on the deck, so we were quickly seated inside. The crab-shrimp cocktail was sweet and clean and fresh-tasting. The mahi-mahi was perfectly cooked. I can see why it is so popular. But it wasn’t particularly memorable, nothing really jumped out and bit me.

We had tickets for the flying fish tour later that night. Obviously, the fish don’t literally fly. They glide. The fish jump out of the water to escape predators like tuna, or when freaked out by boats and lights. Their large fins allow them to sail through the air, giving them their name. It is purported that the longest recorded “flight” was a quarter of a mile, but I am dubious. Most fish jump quickly, like shooting stars, but I’ve counted out a few “flights” at 5 and 6 seconds, pretty impressive in and of itself. My husband had thought flying fish were an invention for tourists, like the jackalope. So in his honor, we were taking the tour. As nervous as I had been about the helicopter, maybe I should have been more afraid of the flying fish, considering this excerpt from the “Catalina Islander” police blotter that day:

Rescue 6 and Baywatch were called to assist a person with an eye injury. The patient was struck in the eye by a flying fish while on a tour boat.

We boarded the tour boat at 9:30 pm, where the tour guide confirmed that the flying fish attack had indeed occured on his boat. I asked him if we should throw the fish back if they jump into the boat. He said the fish would develop a fungus and die, so that wouldn’t work. I asked him what he uses to throw them back with if he can’t use his hands. He just looked at me the way people look at kids when they first ask where hamburgers come from.

It was a beautiful night, and even without the occasional thrill of fish-spotting, the boat ride was definitely worth risking eye injury. It was a spiritual experience just being out on the sea beneath the stars and waxing gibbous moon.

We turned in early, which was lucky because the alarm clock in our room went off at 6:30 am Friday morning. Note to self: always check the alarm clock when you check into a motel. But we were happy to beat the rush at the Pancake Cottage. With its pink formica tables and plastic chairs, it reminded me of an old-fashioned cafeteria, or a department-store lunchcounter. The ruffled curtains on the windows made it officially a “cottage”. They had all manner of pancakes, but in spite of the menu saying “mixed inside” for many of the selections, the waitress told me the only kind with the fruit mixed into the batter was blueberry. so I went with that. My mom got the peach pancakes since they were fresh and rarely in season. The pancakes were fluffy and perfect.

The service was a little brusque until my mom declared to the waitress that these were the best pancakes she had ever eaten, which warmed the waitress up a bit. Strangely, there are no restrooms in the restaurant. My mom suggested maybe they had been around since the days of outhouses. But Avalon is a beacon, nay, a shining star of clean public bathrooms that all the world should emulate. So that was no problem at all.

When we tired of shopping, we decided to take the glass bottomed boat. There were not as many Garibaldi or Sheepshead as I had expected. It was mostly Calico bass. And lots of giant kelp. Giant kelp everywhere. Kelp has always freaked me out a little bit. Ever since I read a Tales of the Unexpected where the kelp reaches out to entangle and drown a greedy treasure hunter.

We had lunch at Antonio’s Pizza, easily the most Roadfood-worthy restaurant of our trip. Established in the 1960s, Antonio’s has long been a fixture in Avalon. There is a second location, which also boasts a mysterious “cabaret”, but even the waitstaff admit it is not as good as the original.

We started off with Antonio’s Cheese Crisp, which could be compared to a white pizza. It is described on the menu as:

A thin pizza crust brushed with garlic butter and topped with five cheeses and chopped pepperoncini

The locals ask for Ranch dressing on the side for dipping, an inspired combination. Although my interest was piqued by the Grilled Prime Rib, Bacon and Cheese Sandwich, I was more intrigued by Mamma Mia’s Day-old Spaghetti:

Spaghetti & meatballs in sauce, blended and chilled for aging, then freshly sauteed in olive oil, butter, garlic, mushrooms, onions and Parmesan Cheese, baked and topped
with Mozzarella and Jack Cheese. M – m – m Mamma Mia!

You could not tell how much trouble had been gone to by sight or taste; it was just like regular spaghetti, but good regular spaghetti. Really good regular spaghetti. It was the closest thing to homemade I have ever had in a restaurant. Maybe even better than mine, and I don’t say that easily.

We waited for our return helicopter at the Buffalo Nickel, conveniently located at the helipad. I ordered the mixed fried seafood platter, then headed to the outdoor restrooms. I passed by a family happily eating hamburgers on the patio. I asked how the food was. The mom asked, “Oh, do you work here?” I admitted, ” No, I’m just incredibly nosy.” They raved about the hamburgers. The fried seafood platter was good, but I judge by New Orleans standards, which is tough competition. I wouldn’t return to Catalina anticipating a meal at the Buffalo Nickel, but it is the kind of place I would be extremely happy to stumble upon when drunk.

Over the years I had forgotten how idyllic Catalina is. I had forgotten how blue the water is and how brightly the sun shines. I can’t wait to return for long days filled with boating and snorkeling. I can even imagine buying a little cottage on the island someday. I just have to remember not to go around touching strange people. On the flight back, I had gotten so comfortable being in the helicopter I jokingly dared the pilot to buzz the Catalina Cruiser. To my shock and delight, he suddenly swooped down over the boat. I turned around nervously to check on my mother, and she was laughing, laughing, laughing.

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