Yai #1 and #2

yai exterior

I had one of the worst meals of my life on a date at Yai #1. Back then they were simply known as “Yai.” They were also known for their “boat noodles.” For the uninitiated, boat noodles include things like liver and tripe. Our young, inexperienced palates just were not ready for that kind of adventure. Not that I’ve ever been a fan of liver. My date said: “This tastes like Lake Erie!” I asked him what Lake Erie tasted like. He replied, “Exactly like this,” and pushed the bowl towards me. So when I was listing Thai restaurants, I made a note of Yai. I wanted to make sure I did not end up there again.

I invited my seafood-loving friend out for my most recent Thai adventure, so I chose a place called Thai Seafood. She misheard me and–wouldn’t you know it–somehow we ended up at Yai. There is a Yai #2 in the shopping center at Hollywood and Vermont. The second outpost is a world apart from its flagship. Large, bright, clean and modern, the space is inviting in an IKEA kind of way.

I was up for anything. It had been 10 years since I last visited Yai, and this place looked like another world. It turned out to be the most 50/50 multiple personality dining experience of my life. We either loved the dishes or hated the dishes. Some of the service was apathetic at best, and other employees went waaaaaay above and beyond the call of duty. Yai #2 had a split personality.

yai inside

By and far, our favorite dish was the crispy catfish. It was deep-fried to perfection, reminding me of New Orleans-style. There were few bones, and the skin was thin and edible (and easy to pick off it you are a little particular, like some people). The catfish was mild, but came with a fiery-hot dipping sauce.

yai catfish

The Yai glass noodles would also be worth a special trip back. Soon. The noodles were not in the least bit greasy – not too much sauce, not too little sauce, Just right. The plate was generous with tofu, egg, and veggies. The sauce was very flavorful but gentle with cooling lime, a nice relief from the fire of the other dishes.

noodle.

Now things start going downhill. Up for a little more adventure than in younger days, I had ordered the boar curry. At this point it is very hard for me to make a fair evaluation, since I have never had boar curry anywhere else. Yet. The curry was complex and multi-layered. You could cook anything in a red curry like that and it would be delicious. You could probably cook people in that sauce and it would be pretty good. And I just might try it. The bits of meat I could pick out were very similar to moose, and if you’ve never had moose, then brisket would be the best comparison. The little, round Thai eggplants were also delicious. But most of the dish was comprised of chewy strips of fat. I asked our friendly host, Jay, if the dish included any organs, or if there was really that much fat on the boar. He said it was only boar meat. It’s just a really fatty animal. Later I asked my friend why they don’t just trim off the fat and she said, “They must like it.”

boar

The last and most shocking dish was the ever-popular papaya salad. This papaya salad came with salted crab, which sounded so delicious. When the dish arrived, there were little purple crabs, shells uncracked, lounging around in the shredded papaya. Then my friend took a bite and made this face:

salty crab

Now for those who have confronted me on the issue of salty crab, let me explain that my friend here is an archeologist who goes to countries you would never even consider visiting, climbs in disgusting holes and digs up dead people. And she eats whatever her local hosts feed her. She is not exactly a wilting violet. I took a bite of the crab and when the fumes hit the back of my throat I was afraid to close my mouth and have those flavors touch my tongue. My friend had to force me to close my mouth, and my entire body was inundated with salt. It was the saltiest thing I have ever had in my life. Even saltier than salt. Mixed with a fermented fishiness, it was one of the most intense things I have ever eaten. I have eaten worse-tasting things, but this was like “Thrill Seekers.”

papaya salad yai

We tried a little papaya to get the taste out of our mouths and whoa, the salad was intense with vinegar and fish sauce. You would think with something as intense as that crab, you would want a refreshing salad, not pure vinegar. But it was as if the various components of the salad were in a war for dominance. It was so intense we started having fun photographing each other taking bites of it and grimacing.

Our new friend, Jay, explained that the crab comes pre-brined from Viet Nam. He was even kind enough to bring out the package to show us.

crab package

Check out that sodium content!

sodium.jpg

Since my first experience at Yai #1 ten years ago had been so bad, and since my experience at Yai #2 was so mixed, I thought it was only fair that I go back to Yai #1 before writing this review. I placed my order to go, then walked over to 7-11 to get cash out for the cash-only Yai. My ATM card was not in my wallet. It was not in my purse. It was not in a box or with a fox, here nor there, nor anywhere. I had already placed my order. I was screwed. I had to slink back over and start counting out my crumpled up ones and the change from my car. It was so humiliating, I wanted to die. But everyone was so nice to me. When the other diners saw me counting quarters, they offered help, but I declined. Finally I came up 4 dollars short. Can you believe I actually carry around 15 dollars worth of change?! They insisted I take the food, and I insisted I will be back with the 4 dollars, and you can bet I will add on a hefty tip.

For the Yai #1 to-go I ordered my favorite dishes from Yai #2. The cellophane noodles were just as good, if not better. They are my new favorite.

cellophane noodles

I also ordered the catfish, which was slathered with fiery red sauce instead of served on the side. It was expertly fried, but they had not removed the pin-bones as the other place did.

yai catfish

I also ordered my alternative to phad thai, spicy mint leaf noodle. Made with the same flat noodles as pad see ew, it is usually called lard na or some variation thereof. But most places just call it “chicken noodles.” Theirs were first rate, with the variant of ground chicken instead of chicken pieces. The chicken was ground up with the herbs and spices, which all mixed in with the noodles like a bolognese sauce and made it a far superior dish.

chicken noodle

The chicken green curry was not too unusual. I liked the bamboo shoots and Thai eggplant, two of my favorite vegetables. The curry was rich with coconut milk, but it was hotter than hell. An excellent meal all around. And I will definitely be back soon. Because I owe them 4 bucks.

green curry

Yai Restaurant 5757 Hollywood Blvd. LA, CA 90028 (323) 462-0292
Yai #2 1627 Vermont Ave. LA, CA 90028 (323) 644-1076

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A&P Pastries

sign

On the furthest edge of Thai Town, in the very back of a sparsely occupied shopping center, just down the sidewalk from the fish market, sits A&P Pastries. The tiny bakery is like a jewel in the rough. I love the decor, especially the Christmas-y decorations. Maybe they are leftovers from the holidays, but more likely it is pure coincidence. In addition to the festive touches, the mood in the small bakery is comfortable and welcoming. The counter girl is so cute and friendly; it is really a joy to shop there.

Pandam cakes

The two pastry cases boast beautiful pastel creations – rolled sponge cakes, French puff pastries, and cream puffs, along with savories like chicken turnovers and buns.

Most Asian sweets tend to go easy on the fat and sugar, which is often a refreshing change. A&P has the best of both worlds – a selection of traditionally rich Western-style desserts, as well as lighter cakes. The French-style pastries are sweet and full of a heavy cream, especially the delicious miniature cream puffs. The jelly rolls are more typical of Asian sweets, with a delicate sponge cake and a light-as-air whipped cream filling. The vanilla is pure heaven, but the orange jelly roll is somewhat intense.

There are also the familiar pale-green tinted cakes and jelly rolls which are flavored with bai dteuy, a type of pandanus leaf used to flavor Thai sweets. The taste is delicate, vaguely similar to vanilla, rose or coconut, yet distinctly its own.

The bakery sells a variety of buns, which are the freshest I have come across outside of my own kitchen. Some of the buns are filled with ham and cheese, but I would recommend the custard-filled variety. The pandam custard is disturbingly similar to guacamole in tint and texture. It’s still delicious if you eat it with your eyes closed. Just try not to think about guacamole (Do not think of a white horse).

bakery festive decor

jelly roll

freshly baked buns

These are some mighty large, hot-dog shaped blueberries

A&P Pastries 5112 Hollywood Blvd. #109 LA 90027 (323) 668-0976

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Bhan Kanom Thai

<bhan kanom

Welcome to the frosty world of Thai snow cones! Also known as nam kang sai, they are not exactly what you imagine when you hear “snow cone”. I was not sure what I was ordering the first time I wandered into Bhan Kanom Thai. Luckily, I’m not all that picky about what I eat anyways. I like a little adventure. It’s a dessert, after all, so it’s not as if it’s going to be full of eyeballs or something.

Bhan Kanom Thai is a very well-stocked import candy and snack shop. They have a fresh bakery and make their own desserts. There are two cases running along the side of the spacious shop. One side holds trays of desserts like pumpkin in milk, and sweet black beans in sweetened condensed milk. The other half of the case is given over to the wonder of the snow cone. This is not your mother’s snow cone (Unless, of course, your mother is Thai. Then it probably is your mother’s snow cone).

The server holds a large styrofoam cup at the ready. You are given several options, from which you select three or four. Some of them are familiar to most Angelenos by now – sliced jackfruit, green-tinted boba, and coconut jelly. There were also little basil seeds that were flavorless but had the fun crunch of poppy seeds. I went with the larger “palm seeds” which are actually attap, the immature fruit of the Mangrove palm. They looked like big clear lima beans. A lot of Thai sweets seem to be clear and gelatinous. I also chose boba, coconut jelly, and jackfruit.

Snow cones in progress

The server filled the cup the rest of the way to the top with crushed ice, and gestured to three syrups. The first one he could only identify as “red”. I asked for more clarification, like if this was a fruit flavor, and everyone just stared at each other and repeated “red”. It made me think of artificially flavored “grape” kool-aid that really is the flavor “purple” when you think about it. I gestured towards the green bottle and he shook his head no. Bad choice. So I went with the clear syrup, which he could identify as “Jasmine.” Later I was to discover that the green syrup was “cream soda” flavor. “Red” flavor is actually called sala, which is a flavor that comes from the fruit of the sala tree. It reminds me of a cross between Campari and cherry cough syrup.

Unlike some people, I enjoy floral flavors – I’m particularly fond of rose water, and a strange Canadian candy called “Floral Gums” that most of my friends think tastes like soap. So I really liked the Jasmine syrup. At first I approached the snow cone as more of a scientific experiment than a food, poking it and letting the textures play on my tongue. But after I got home and most of the ice had melted, what I was left with was an ice-cold fruit salad that I could not stop eating. Temperatures in the 100s made the snow cone a perfect snack.

So perfect in fact, that I made the trek back to Thai Town the very next day. And I was back a few days later to turn my friend on to the wonders of the snow cone. We arrived early enough to watch them baking and preparing all kinds of exotic goodies. This time I mixed it up a little, choosing jackfruit, palm seed, and red beans. The string-like white jelly is completely flavorless. My friend chose basil seeds for hers, and said that they looked like tiny little eyeballs. And after I had promised no eyeballs! She went with green “cream soda” flavor which turned out to be really sweet and tasted nothing like cream soda. We accepted the offer to top off the ice with a dollop of sweetened condensed milk, but that just took it too far. It made the snowcone almost too sweet to be edible.

Amongst the other taste treats there, I have picked up sweet candy threads that you roll up in a mushu-like pancake, a squishy thing that looks like a taco, sweet crispy tacos, egg yolk pastries that look like flowers, and little candies that look like hot peppers. I also picked up some dried Durian which I have yet to try. I think I’ll save that one for the next LAist get-together.

melting jackfruit, boba palm seed and coconut jello snow cone with Jasmine syrup

snow cone options

basil seed snowcone with cream soda syrup

yolk pastry being prepared

Bhan Kanom Thai 5271 Hollywood Blvd. LA 90027 (323) 871 8030

Other locations:
12714 Sherman Way North Hollywood 91605 (818) 255-3355
8402 Alondra Blvd. Paramount 90723 (562) 633-2799

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Ganda Thai

buddha.jpgIf Hollywood’s Thai Town has a center, it is the bustling block of Thailand Plaza. The two-story Plaza houses not only a restaurant, but is home to a Thai bookstore and a giant, well-stocked grocery. Thailand Plaza is easily identifiable by its elaborately decorated shrine to the Thai Buddha of four faces. Off to the side stands a spirit house, meant to entice spirits to take up residence. The idea is they will be so distracted they will not be tempted to move into your house. Just adjacent to Thailand Plaza is a square called “Thai Town Plaza”. This plaza has a truly happening restaurant row. It is anchored by Ruen Thai, the ritzy Red Corner Asia, and dessert shop Bhan Kanom. In the corner stands Thai Patio, the location that once housed Palms Thai (which has relocated to 5900 Hollywood, taking Thai Elvis with them). Hiding inauspiciously in the corner is the easily overlooked Ganda.

Right now the foodies may be singing the praises of North Hollywood as the Thai mecca du jour, but LAist is all about loyalty, and we still love Thai Town, forever and always.

The “official” boundaries of Thai Town stretch between Western and Normandie on Hollywood Blvd. That’s not much room to stretch, really, so the Thai restaurants have spread out towards the 101 Hollywood freeway and Vermont, spilling over to Sunset as they continue their outward diaspora.

In addition to their geographical boundaries, Thai restaurants in Hollywood are stretching their culinary boundaries as well. From Thai Express, the most basic corner stand sporting a hot dog on the roof, to the upscale Red Corner Asia, these neighborhood restaurants are serving a diverse clientele. Chefs are exploring Chinese fusion at Chuan Chim, Shabu Shabu at Hollywood Thai Cuisine, and even giving Thai food a latino spin over at Vim (pronounced Wim). One can still find comfort in the safety of pad thai, or head over to Palms for some serious boar curry. From noodle houses to grills, from little bakeries to Thai snow cone shops, the choices are endless. So let’s go thai one on!

sign

Starting in the heart of Thai Town, Ganda’s generous buffet-style steam trays lure me inside. The decor is hip and exotic. If this restaurant were anywhere but the heart of Thai town, it would have your friends asking in awe, “How did you FIND this place?

One side of the restaurant contains a little shop of Thai goods. The centerpiece of the restaurant is the large steam table that overflows with a feast of enticing dishes. Only about half of them are recognizable, which only adds to my excitement. No one speaks much English, which I also take as a very good sign.

You can also order from a menu, but the steam table was too exciting to pass up. The curries immediately drew me in. They were not limited to the usual green, yellow, red and massaman. There were at least 8 different curry dishes. I recognized the fringe of tripe in one of them, and fish balls in another.

I pointed at a deep red curry and a green curry brimming with some unfamiliar vegetable. It was similar to collard greens, or kale, but much tougher. I was finally able to identify it as cassia leaves. Thai curries are so complex and intense it is often difficult for the palate to differentiate individual ingredients. No single flavor should dominate. When cooked correctly, the flavors of a curry should meld into a complex symphony. And Ganda was definitely playing my song. The red curry contained only tender beef, with no vegetables or fillers. The curry paste was thick, like a panang, and the dish nicely combined richness and heat. Another 3-star spicy dish for sure.

Ganda successfully balanced the basic flavors of Thai cooking: hot (spicy), sour, sweet, and salty. Actually, it was pretty heavily balanced towards the spicy. The fiery curries were stimulating in small doses, but I’m sure they could become dare-worthy pretty quickly. In Thai, you can ask them for something not so spicy with the phrase mai phet (not spicy) or mai sai prik (do not put in chilis). (www.realthai.blogspot.com).

Combo plates from the steam table come with 2 or 3 selections, plus steamed rice. For my third selection I chose kunchaing, an interesting-looking sausage that had caught my eye the second we walked in the door. Referred to as “Chinese sausage”, the Chinese lettering on the package actually says “Taiwanese sausage” and it is made in Whittier. It is much denser than the usual sai krok. It is like a dense polska kielbasa, bordering on a salami. The sausage was unusually sweet, yet it was not cloying or unpleasant. It was as if a delicate sweet syrup had been brushed on it as it cooked.

The spicy mint-leaf chicken ordered from the menu was a nice foil to the spiciness and actually cooled things down. The wide rice noodles were soft and slippery without being greasy. I was pleasantly surprised by the addition of long beans and straw mushrooms. It is definitely comfort food, and exactly the kind of thing you would want to eat if you had a cold.

Like many places in Thai Town, Ganda accepts cash only. Luckily there are two ATMs in the plaza. Also, like many of the places in the plaza, they stay open until 2 o’clock in the morning. The place was staffed entirely by women, and they were all welcoming and amiable in spite of the language barrier.

Although I am drawn to the bright lights and elegant vibe of Thailand Hollywood Plaza’s other restaurants, I think I will be sticking with Ganda for awhile.

buffet

sausage and curry

chicken noodles

Ganda shopping

Thailand Plaza's spirit house

chinese sausage

(When I asked for the restrooms, the server handed me a tiny little bucket. I stared at her. She stared at me. I looked at the bucket, and I looked back at her. She laughed and pointed to the key that was attached to the bucket. This place wasn’t THAT exotic).

Ganda Thai
5269 Hollywood Blvd
Los Angeles, CA 90027-4912
(323) 466-4281

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Where to Eat in Northridge

The San Fernando Valley rivals the Westside and the Fairfax District in the deli department. In Northridge alone, there are three competing delis: Brent’s, Abe’s and Weiler’s. Each one has its own fans.

Brents 19565 Parthenia St. Northridge (818) 886-5679

For a long time I was strictly into Brents, a local institution since 1967. They are definitely considered the frontrunner by most people. My friend insists their matzoh balls are the best, and that they are “the size of my head.” Their pastrami and corned beef sandwich, pictured above, has to be eaten with a fork before it can be made small enough to fit it in your mouth. They open at 6am, and serve most menu items early. They are famous for their catering, and have just opened a location in Westlake.

Abe’s 19626 Nordhoff St Northridge 91324 (818) 701-5563

Abe’s is open until 11pm on Friday and Saturday nights, which is convenient. They used to be a Solley’s, until Solley’s twin brother Abe took over. Which makes this delivery truck an obvious prop. Their cream puffs are freakishly large, the deli guys are friendly, and their pastrami is spectacular. And who can resist free pickles while you wait? But even the people I met there said they chose Abe’s because it was easy to get into on a Sunday morning.

Weiler’s 9046 Balboa Boulevard Northridge 91325
818-892-8663

Lately Weiler’s on the corner of Nordoff and Balboa has started to win me over. They opened in 1962, although they have changed locations. In spite of their un-deli-ish “country charm” decor, they do have some excellent pastrami and a definite neighborhood vibe. Servers greet customers by name and hardly anybody needs a menu. Plus they have these scary cookies that remind me of an unforgettable episode of Gumby:

Really, I am just into the sign. But admit it, you love mojo potatoes. 10340 Reseda Blvd, Northridge (818) 360-2151

A&W Seafood 9306 Reseda Blvd. Northridge 91324

A&W Seafood is known for its Hong Kong-style dim sum lunches. It may not be Monterey Park, but it’s pretty darn good. The hostess alternates between being kind of angry and sugary-sweet, which I find a scary combination. Otherwise, the service is friendly, and the ambiance is refreshingly cool and elegant on a hot day.

Colleges always attract good, cheap eats and CSUN is no exception

Cupids 9039 Lindley Av, Northridge

Cupid’s hot dogs can be a little bland, so I recommend you go heavy on the toppings. But the snap of the skin and the fat content are in perfect balance. The bun is soft and fresh, and the price can’t be beat.

My Hero 9514 Reseda Blvd # 15 Northridge (818) 349-4255

I once walked into a classroom on the first day of class at CSUN and the instructor had written on the board:

How to survive CSUN:

1. Attend class
2. Study
3. My Hero

Their subs are first-rate, but the secret is the tomato salad. Even when I was vegan, I would just get a tomato salad sandwich. The Italian-style dressing is not overpoweringly vinegary, and the the crunch of the celery is just right.

Falafel Palace 9255 Reseda Blvd. Northridge (818) 993-0734

This is the place for vegans. They even have vegan baklava. But carnivores can feast on shwarma with all the trimmings, and it wouldn’t kill you to have a falafel once in awhile. In fact, this is the place where even the most avowed meat-lover should have a falafel.

Mongolian King 9545 Reseda Blvd # 20 Northridge 91324 (818) 886-9711

Before every mall in the world had a Mongolian BBQ, I used to love the novelty of this place. Now I go there because the sauce is a million times better than the sauce at the place in the mall. They also have big, bread puffs that will burn the bejeesus out of your hands, so be careful.

Las Hadas 9048 Balboa Blvd Northridge 91325 (818) 892-7271

I always thought Las Hadas just looked like an an Acapulco’s kind of office-lunch place until Frank Black told me it was his favorite Mexican place in Northridge. It turned out they have fantastic enchiladas and huge, dangerous margaritas that make the girls from the office tell you all of their secrets.

Bakeries

Delicious Bakery 9147 Reseda Blvd. Northridge (818) 349-5700

Delicious Bakery, hidden in the corner of the Vons parking lot is a secret, so don’t tell anyone. This is where all of the delis get their baked goods. Go straight to the source and get your black-and-white cookies fresh out of the oven. Just look at the size of that hamantashen!

Weinie Bakery 9250 Reseda Blvd. (818) 886-7331

Hidden in the corner of a strip mall, the Weinie Bakery is the place for all things bao. They offer all types of Chinese buns and baked goods. Buns come will fillings like barbecued chicken, vegetarian tofu, and yes, they even have a roll with sliced hot dogs baked into it.

24-hour Party People

El Indio 17019 Roscoe Northridge (818) 765-9259

El Indio On Roscoe just west of Balboa, is a late-night mecca for cops and cars full of drunk partiers. Good tacos make for strange bedfellows. After the bars close down, the place fills with drunk guys nursing sour grapes about how the chicks who wouldn’t go home with them “weren’t that hot anyways.” 24-hours a day, El Indio has killer carnitas tacos and the best chile relleno burritos I’ve ever had.

Yummy Donuts 7555 Balboa Blvd Northridge (818) 780-2204

Yummy Donuts has acceptable donuts, but the pan quesedilla is killer. So are the little twisty cream puffs. Plus they have sandwiches and ice cream. Where else can you get an ice cream cone at 4am?

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San Francisco: Thursday, Friday, and Wrap-up

People have questioned my selection of restaurants in San Francisco.

My selections were often a matter of practicality, as I was with an ever-revolving group of people, and I had a conference to attend for six out of the eight days. I spent most of my time around Union Square and the Financial District, not of my own voilition.

However, within these parameters, I did have some decisions to make. And some of them were made as a result of Bauer’s The Dish on LA. I felt like Bauer was kind of a Zagat victim. Nothing against Zagat – I faithfully take their surveys and even get giddy when I recognize my quotes. But because of Zagat and that whole school of thought, he reviewed the biggest, flashiest names. He definitely did not use Counter Intelligence as his guide. Bauer’s review was criticized for ignoring some of our excellent local and “ethnic” food. I hate the term “ethnic” food. All food is ethnic food to someone, but I’ll save that rant for another time. I was determined not to be seduced by the hippest and most happening hotspots. So I left the Zagat Guide at home this trip.

So first, I chose the oldest restaurants I could find, the grand dames – Sears, John’s Grill, and The Tadich Grill. Classics. Then I went looking off the beaten foodie path – Tommy’s Restaurant, Tommy’s Joynt, Blondie’s. I tried to balance things out with some newer and brighter spots – Millenium, Out the Door, and the Slanted Door. Some places were sheer happenstance or serendipity. I was hungry. I turned around, and there it was. Sometimes this worked in my favor, like B Restaurant, and sometimes not so much, like with the Jazz Bistro. You win some, you lose some.

Now here we are, two days left in the city, and I am going to make the most of it…

THURSDAY

The Ferry Building

Thursday we headed down to the Ferry Building. I had been staring at its clocktower all week from afar, like a beacon of hope. I was kind of shocked when I offhandedly asked my nephew, “Hey, want to go buy some artisinal cheese?” and he actually set down the computer mouse and followed me. I guess it runs in the family. Cowgirl Creamery, the mecca of goat cheese lovers, was my first stop. I picked up their cute mixed bag (Hint: Don’t buy the 60 dollar bag Giada buys on TV. The 20-dollar bag is perfectly good. You don’t need a 40-dollar cheese board). Plus, I had to get their infamous Purple Haze, which is an herbed goat cheese.

Oh, Miette, with those delicate little macarons and lavender shortbread. Their pastel china just makes me want to throw a bridal shower!

And ScharfenBerger, who has rhubarb truflles and delicate little mushroom-shaped chocolates right now. And chocolate covered currants! Next time I am definitely taking the factory tour.

Slanted Door

After loading up on treats for friends back home, I wanted to try The Slanted Door. I was really just interested in going there because so many people had told me that I would never be able to get a table. Unfortunately, I am easy prey for a double-dog dare and discouragement only made me determined. And I must admit, it was slightly complicated. They stop seating in the restaurant sometime after 2. but you can still order from the full menu at the bar until 2:30. But that means you can only eat it at the bar; you cannot carry it 2 feet over to a table in “the lounge”. After the full menu ends at 3pm or whenever, you can order from a limited “tea” menu at the bar and at the lounge. This complex maneuver had me ordering very quickly and seating my 15-year-old nephew at the bar.

Luckily, the bartender was friendly and recommended a beef dish. I tried to pronounce it. Xiao Tsing Beef? It was just “Shaken Beef”. I also ordered crab noodles, chicken noodles, and a crepe. Like the irresponsible aunt I am, I left my nephew in the bar to watch our seats while I found my husband who was parking the car. Which in San Francisco is like one of the labours of Hercules.

This time I LOVED the servers. Both of the bartenders were extremely friendly and attentive. I was even charmed into ordering a nectarine caprihana. I noticed “unfriendly waiter” from Out the Door when he came to the bar with a drink order. He gave me that weird “I see you; but I’m ignoring you” look normally reserved for ex-boyfriends. I thought it was strange he would recognize me, because he was the one waiter who had been rude to me the week before, whereas I was only one of hundreds of customers he had probably been rude to. Later I remembered that two members of my party blatantly undertipped him. So he probably did remember me.

The “shaken beef” is made with filet mignon and is unbelievable. Unfortunately, the “chicken noodles” were not the “5-spice chicken noodles” I liked, and they were pretty greasy. My nephew reminded me, “They ARE pan-fried.” Which equals greasy. The crab noodles, made with transluscent cellophane noodles contained very fresh crab, but were pretty bland. The crepe was unexpected. It was more like an interpretation of egg foo young. It was a big omelet, stuffed with a stir-fry. It was extremely greasy, and no one ate more than a tester helping. But it did come with a sweet sauce that I used to liven up the crab noodles.

The thing about The Slanted Door (and Out the Door) is that everything is hit or miss. Some of the menu selections are breathtakingly delicious. If you know what you’re doing, you could have a truly memorable meal there. But choose wrong, and you will get a lumpy, greasy dish full of bland. And if you know to ask for “moustache” with the mullet, or the two cute servers from my picture at the bar, you will have an excellent time and make new friends. But if you get stuck with “unfriendly waiter” – ok, lets just say it – “bitchy waiter” you are going to have a terrible time. I would recommend going to the Ferry Building’s Out the Door takeout where you don’t have to deal with waiters, and just eat outside where you can look at the gorgeous bay. But don’t fill up, because there is still Taylor’s Refresher waiting for you.

Taylors Refresher

Of all of the low-budget restaurants I sampled, I would have to crown Taylor’s king. And I am not the only one, In 2006, Taylor’s received the James Beard Foundation American Classics Award. We were so sorry we had filled up on soggy noodles and had to split a hamburger. This hamburger was beyond compare. The edges were charred and the inside was juicy, bursting with greasy goodness. I will crave this burger forever and compare all other burgers to this one. I am ruined. The french fries were hot and probably double-fried to get that kind of crunch. But the thing that makes Taylor’s stand out from the rest of the pack is the pistachio milkshake was rich and creamy with real ice cream, like a good vanilla shake should be. The pistachio flavor did not taste artificial in any way. It was clean and pure, like you always wished pistachio ice cream could be, without even realizing it. When I reached the bottom, there was a small pile of pistachio nuts in the cup. I asked them if anyone had ever choked on one, and the employees looked surprised and slightly frightened, like that had never occured to them before. As we walked out, everything on every table I passed looked delicious. I wanted to pick up the hot dog and fish tacos from a neighboring table and put them in my purse. I wanted everything. Taylor’s turned me out.

Recchiuti

Sometimes I try things just for the adventure, knowing they are going to be awful. When I put a pink peppercorn and star anise chocolate in my mouth, I thought maybe they could pull it off, maybe it wouldn’t be dreadful. It never occured to me it could be better, that it could possibly be the best chocolate I had ever tasted. Better than See’s California Brickle. Better than homemade marshmallows from Eidelweiss. It was nothing short of an epiphany. I realized that I had been limited in my thinking about spices. That there were so many new possibilities! That there were new horizons of flavors to explore! I bought boxes and boxes of chocolates in order to bring this amazing flavor back, so I could tell everyone what I had discovered like a converted religious nut. My conversion was short-lived. I left the bag on the counter in the airport and when I returned they said they had to turn them in to security as a suspicious package. Security claims to have never received them, Someone is either enjoying a sugar rush right now or 100 dollars worth of gourmet treats have been detonated in a field outside of Oakland.

Chez Panisse

For my big final meal out, my brother and his wife took us to what is perhaps the epicenter of the slow food movement, and every other movement promoting fresh, local ingredients, Chez Panisse. Alice Waters is truly a pioneer, and everyone was excited about our meal as we walked up to the big craftsman. We chose to eat in the “upstairs” cafe instead of “downstairs” because “downstairs offers only a single, prix fixe meal. Mondays are usually more laid back, the meal does not offer a dessert, and runs about 55 dollars. The rest of the week the menu averages 65 to 85 dollars and features events such as an “all duck dinner”. “Upstairs” in the cafe/bar, the menu offers a simpler prix fixe menu at around 28 dollars. They also offer a limited menu of around 6 salads, one appetizer, one soup, six mains and four desserts as well as a cheese plate. We prefer the cafe for last-minute meals or when dining with a group because sometimes you don’t like what is being served downstairs. A few comments I have read on the internet insinuate that the cafe is inferior to “downstairs” but maybe they are just snobs.

We all enjoy trying a little bit of everything, so we chose to eat “family style.” We split a Caprese salad with Wild Boar Farm tomatoes and fresh mozzarella. It is so refreshing to eat ripe tomatoes, and the light vinagrette was perfect. The garden lettuce salad was simple, but it was one of those must-have items for my brother, who is a serious devotee of their salads. We split a main as a starter – the pizza with hot and sweet peppers. Ok, Bauer, if you have been reading these blogs and wonder what any of this has to do with you, listen up – here is your payoff. You wondered why San Francisco lacks pizza like Mozza, well here is your pizza. Call Chez Panisse every night until they have this pizza. You will never bemoan the state of Bay Area pizzas again. Hot banana peppers in the mix made this pizza just hot enough to be exciting without overpowering. The cheese, of course, was farm fresh – and that crust. Seriously, this is the pizza you have been waiting for. Pray that they offer some variation regularly.

Between the six of us, we ordered two orders of “Sonoma County duck-leg with corn fritters, green beans and morels”, two orders of “Grilled James Ranch lamb leg with black-eyed peas and tomatillos” and one order of “Hand-cut pasta with heirloom tomatoes, basil, and Bellwether Farm Ricotta.”

To be honest, the pasta was a little bland. The texture of the hand-cut pasta was perfection, the cheese was creamy, but it just needed some kind of punch. Maybe the hot peppers on the pizza had dulled my palate too much. The duck shown in my photo is a double order on one plate, and it was fantastic. The meat was tender without a hint of gaminess, more like free-range chicken. The corn fritters were the star of the show. Man. I wanted to grab them all, but all those Sesame Street songs about “sharing” have socialized me just enough to make it through a dinner party. The lamb was also excellent, without a hint of gaminess. I can really getting into game when it is this high quality. The black-eyed peas were a homey touch, but the tomatillos seemed a little out-of-place.

We decided to split desserts – a bittersweet chocolate pave (like a broken paving stone – really, it was similar to those molten lava cakes that were all the rage, but without the lava filling) and a strawberry sherbert. We all took polite bites, but it was clear that most of us were too stuffed to deal with anything else. One person took over the chocolate, and another devoured the sorbet while the rest of us groaned. There was a slight mix-up, and we had a hard time getting our bill, which turned out to be sitting on the counter right above my head the entire time. My brother hosted, and attempted to hide the bill, but it looked like it averaged out to about 50 dollars per person. Not bad for salad, appetizer, mains, dessert and 5 glasses of wine. As we left, my brother remarked, “I love this place. I don’t know why we don’t come here more.”

Friday

De Young Cafe

Friday we spent the day at Golden Gate park and the De Young Museum. Out of convenience, I had lunch at the museum’s cafe. I have to say, museum cafes have really come into their own. The sandwich was first-rate, and the bread was just as good as all of the other bread I was served in San Francisco. This city is into bread.

And again with the fresh, local ingredients:

As part of Bon Appétit’s pioneering “Farm to Fork” program, these ingredients are grown or produced within 150 miles of the kitchen where they will be prepared. The de Young menu includes cheeses and dairy products from Point Reyes Farmstead Cheese Company, Straus Family Creamery, and Cowgirl Creamery; breads from Berkeley’s Acme Bakery…

On Friday evenings, when the De Young holds special community events, the cafe offers a dinner menu. During the summer, they are offering a Cinema Supper Club, showing films featuring famous artists.

Contrary to what my favorite angled photo technique suggests, the cafe is not actually located on a boat that is weathering a storm.

Monette’s

I would never be such an ungrateful houseguest as to leave out the fantastic meal prepared for us by my sister-in-law Monette on Friday night. My entire family can cook, from my mom all the way down to my youngest nephews, who have “Iron Chef” competitions at home for fun. We all have our specialties, but no one can set a beautiful table like Monette. I have always envied her ability to take a few sprigs of Chervil and make a dish look like it should be on the front cover of Gourmet. She barbecued steaks and albacore tuna, and made gorgeous salads with haricot vertes and a delicious cherry tomato caprese. I didn’t help matters by stuffing her full of Cowgirl goat cheese and champagne before dinner. But it was truly one of the best meals I was served, and a lovely way to end the trip. Plus, Monette works for Sephora and I got her tipsy enough to let me rifle through her samples box! Score!

Final Thoughts

To make any kind of pronouncement, I feel like I would need another month in San Francisco. There were so many places I didn’t have a chance to try – Herbivore, Tu Lan, Swan’s Oyster Depot, Little Joe’s. I didn’t even touch Chinatown or the Mission District. But after barely dipping my toes in the bay, I have to say I was was impressed with the value San Francisco places on food. It is the kind of dedication that made me fall in love with New Orleans.

I was particularly impressed by San Francisco’s dedication to preservation. The number of classic restaurants still standing was a welcome surprise. In an era when newer is better, it is heartwarming to see history respected. From the Tadich Grill, the oldest restaurant in San Francisco, to Chez Panisse, a place of quality is never “over”.

In the tradition of Chez Panisse, emphasis is placed on quality ingredients. In even the cheapest hole-in-the-wall, tomatoes were red, lettuces were crisp, and I was never served a single slice of bread that did not taste fresh and homemade.

There also seems to be much more of a focus placed on beer and wine as opposed to LA’s ever-present cocktails. Smaller-label organic wines and interesting microbrews were readily available. A larger selection of wines are offered by the glass, and it seems like less of a formalized ritual. Only one restaurant offered to send over a sommelier and it was with that same half-serious tone that TV cops use when they offer to send in a lawyer. The only time I even drank a cocktail was in the Slanted Door, and only because I was sitting at the bar.

From the simplest taqueria to white tablecloth dining, there is a sense of continuity; every restaurant seems to feel a connection to the San Francisco’s history. From the restaurants of San Francisco’s past, one can follow the lineage eventually into the Educated Palate. You can see the pride in the instructor’s eyes, and the smiles on her student’s faces. In their classroom restaurant, they strive to provide the same high level of service one finds at Tadich’s Grill. They serve only the freshest ingredients, as Alice Waters would have them do. They are here to provide the continuity that will link San Francisco’s treasured past with its future.

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San Francisco Tuesday and Wednesday

The Educated Palate

Amongst all the restaurant talk at the conference, I did pick up one invaluable tip (Thanks Francine!). Across the street from the conference, the city college’s cooking school ran a restaurant called the Educated Palate. I was told they had an incredible lamb sandwich. It was good timing, since the restaurant was preparing to close for a 2-week semester break (They will re-open August 23rd).

We managed to make their last lunch service. Everyone ordered sandwiches, but I thought I would be risky and went for a Moroccan chicken dish. It turned out to be a large filo-encased mixture of ground chicken and spices with a tomato concasse. It was kind of intense, and probably would have been better in a smaller, appetizer portion. But the flavors were well-balanced and the filo was perfect.

I split my chicken dish with a friend in exchange for half of her lamb sandwich. Lamb is often too gamey for me. The only lamb I have ever really enjoyed was in Guy Savoy’s Bouquenistas in Paris. This lamb was as good as, or may have even surpassed Guy Savoy’s. That is pretty fantastic for a cooking school; I dare the CIA to take them on. Fresh mozzarella took this sandwich over the top. I can’t recommend the Educated Palate highly enough. When we asked for separate checks, they even split the bottled Pelligrino three ways, and the dessert four ways on our bills. I have never had a restaurant do that before.

The friendly instructor, Barbara Haimes, not only allowed me to photograph her restaurant, but proudly gathered her class together for a photograph. She had a mixture of competence and kindness that can turn all business when needed, qualities I recognized from some of my favorite instructors. She immediately asked me about Mozza, so I knew she was up-to-date, and when I mentioned Bauer’s article, she was extremely diplomatic.

Later that evening I stopped in at Parc 55’s Siam Thai to grab take-out for the hotel room. It was not very memorable, and I didn’t even photograph it. But my room-mates had brought me back a piece of chocolate cake that was outstanding. As vegans love doing, they waited until after I had eaten it to announce to me that it was a product of sneaky vegan sleight-of-hand. Judging from the cake alone, I’m sorry I missed joining them for dinner at Herbivore.

Wednesday

B Restaurant and Bar

Wednesday marked the end of the conference, and my husband picked me up to visit MOAD (Museum of African Diaspora) and YBCA (Yerba Buena Center for the Arts). On my previous walks through the park, I could see Samovar above the waterfall and it had piqued my interest. I meant to go there, but we accidentally stumbled upon B Restaurant and Bar. What serendipity! The room was uncrowded and open, almost like a continuation of the park. High windows made it feel airy and light. It was elegent, yet comfortable. Thus far, I had experienced competent service, friendly service, and unfriendly service, but B Restaurant and Bar was the first time that I fell in love with my waiter. I stood up to wash my hands at the exact moment he arrived with our drinks, and instead of bumping into me, he smoothly slid an arm around me to help me up, and we ended up standing together arm in arm as if we were dates at a party. Grant Goodrich (He even has a good, strong, name) was so comfortable with us, chatting about the menu, and generally treating us as if we were guests in his home. He was without question my favorite waiter.

Luckily, chef Aaron Webb was equally skilled in the kitchen (Although he did not come out to hug me). I was in the mood for hamburger and he delivered. The grilled Angus was cooked to my liking, and the tomato was actually red – a gorgeous ruby red. I realized I have never been served a perfectly ripe tomato on a hamburger before. What? Was I raised in a cave? Perhaps it was not quite as dramatic as the moment in the Wizard of Oz where everything turns technicolor, but this organic, sustainable, locally grown thing has really got something to it. The catfish brandade was kind of deconstructed, with the seared catfish steak served over what I assume to be potatoes brandade, whipped with the garlic and cream. We weren’t exactly sure what it was, but it was rich and delicious and our only complaint was that we wanted a bigger portion. The dessert, a layered chocolate cake with a Black Forest spin arrived with a small carafe of icing, but I found myself wishing for something lighter, like whipped cream.

I kept their menu as a memento, and just reading it makes me want to rush back : Baked crab ratatouille, Saffron risotto with seared dayboat scallops, grilled torpedo onions and riccolla. Riccolla! OK, you got me. It is not in any of my culinary dictionaries. Internet searches keep bringing up The Divine Comedy. What the hell is riccolla? And Tofu Bucco? Like Osso Bucco? Really? How in the hell do you pull that off? Bring it on! Pour me a lime rickey and let’s go to town.

YBCA:

Tadich Grill

The Tadich Grill is the oldest restaurant in San Francisco. Sure, it’s changed names and moved around a few times (who hasn’t?). It’s been in the same family since 1913. The tag “The Original Cold Day Restaurant” is not because of the hot coffee and hearty soups, but from the ballsy slogan of a failed politician back in 1882. This place has serious history. And a serious following. A long bar runs the length of one side of the restaurant, and everyone obediently lines up against the wall for the anticipated 45-minute wait for a table. I run upstairs to wash up, then take a leisurely stroll around the restaurant, and who should I run into but Marian and Vivian, “The Twins.”

The next thing you know, I’m sitting at their table and they are regaling me with stories about their lives in the midwest, warning me against marriage and giving me lots of vague advice with finger-waggling emphasis, like, “Only you can sink your own ship.” When our table is finally ready, my husband is not in the least bit surprised to find me sitting with someone else, not after he sees the twins.

Once we had our table, service was swift and super-efficient. Our waiter, who had a heavy accent of indeterminate origin, managed to keep things humming without rushing us at all. I was jealous of the diners who had the luck and large enough groups to sit in the old-fashioned cubicle-like wooden booths. I usually only see those in Chinatown. I started with a crab cocktail, as clean and refreshing as any other. The cocktail sauce was mild, with no discernible trace of horseradish. By the time I finished the crab cocktail, my soup had been sitting at my elbow for about five minutes. The waiter offered to bring me a fresh bowl. When I finally figured out what he was saying, I was so impressed with him that I touched his arm tenderly, which probably freaked him out a little. The clam chowder was exactly what I was looking for – the quintissential flavors of San Francisco.

Although I knew it was madness, I couldn’t stop myself and ordered the cioppino. Soup with soup. The waiter raised an eyebrow, but put the order in. I always remember my brother Greg’s story about the Italian fishermen sharing a communal pot and telling each other “chip-in” “chip-in-oh” The Italian accent was so bad, it took me a long time to finally believe there was any truth to that legend. My cioppino arrived with a big hunk of garlic bread for dipping. The fish was rich with the taste of the sea, and the shrimp and scallops were delicate. On my third course, not including the sourdough bread, there was no way I could finish it. But I did manage to pick out the best chunks.

When we arrived back at my brother’s for the night, he asked how dinner was. “Did you have clam chowder?”

“Yes.”

“Was your waiter from somewhere mysterious, like Croatia?”

“Yes.”

“And you met The Twins?”

(To be continued…)

Educated Palate 88 4th Street SF 94103 (415) 267-6512

B Restaurant and Bar 720 Howard St SF 94107 (415) 495-9800

Tadich Grill 240 California Street SF (415) 391-1849

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San Francisco Monday

Sears Fine Foods


Sears Fine Foods

Monday we settled in for our only real breakfast, and we could not have chosen better than Sear’s Fine Foods. The line stretches down the block, but moves fairly quickly. It is short enough so that you don’t feel put out, but long enough that you feel confident that the food must be good. Kitschy D-list photos on the walls and a clutch of antique typewriters scattered around give you something to ponder while you wait.

Just three years after its rescue from near-extinction by Lori’s Diner, Sears continues to serve its famous 18 silver dollar Swedish pancakes. They are so cute and adorable. I can see why children freak out over them. Rolled up with a little butter and lingonberry sauce, I was kind of freaking out myself. Their bacon and sausage are of the highest quality, service is first-rate and attention is paid to every detail. I only had to think, “I’m running low on coffee” before the psychic waiter would come running over with a refill. Spying on nearby tables, I could see that their red flannel hash is pretty popular as well. Stuffed after such a hearty breakfast, this was the one time we took the streetcar (5 bucks each! Ouch!). Clanking and rolling along with bellies full of pancakes and bacon made us feel like we were real tourists.

Vino Venue

In the afternoon, I met my brother at Vino Venue, a wine bar across the street from MOAD. At Vino Venue, you fill a card with a dollar amount, like you would at a casino or video arcade. Each kiosk has different types of wine with descriptions and a price, from around 2.50 to 4.50. You put the card in, select a wine, and have a do-it-yourself wine tasting. I discovered I like “buttery” chardonnays, like the Wise West Australian Single Vineyard 2005 Chardonnay. But I spent most of my time drinking the wines with strange descriptions – gravelly earth? I want to know what gravelly earth tastes like!

AG Ferrari Foods

To soak up the wine, I picked up a sandwich at AG Ferrari Foods, an Italian gourmet shop and deli next-door. The deli case overflowed with appealing bites, but I was saving my appetite for John’s. So I just snacked on half of a turkey sandwich in the park. The bread and garnishes were perfection, but it was a little skimpy on the meat.

John’s Grill

I was grateful that I had stopped in and made a reservation for Johns Grill earlier that morning. Group after group ahead of us were asked to wait, and it was a relief to be escorted immediately to our table. John’s Grill is famous for being the setting for the book, The Maltese Falcon, and the Dashell Hammet club still meets there. Someone had told me the interior was creepy. I thought it was rather cozy, but when I had to climb the dark stairwell to the restrooms, I had to admit, ok, it was a little creepy upstairs.

I ordered the house drink, named the Bloody Bridgid, after Hammet’s fictional murderess. The drink was so strong, I think she may have done him in with alcohol poisoning. The Dungeness crab cocktail was clean and fresh, topped with a shocking horseradish cocktail sauce. Not a single bit of shell. Icy cold. Sheer perfection. My filet mignon was unprecedented in its tenderness. Sometimes I think a good meal is like sex. It is hard to compare it to experiences from your past, because the most recent one always seems better. But try as I might, I can’t remember ever having a steak so tender. Normally with filet mignon there is one delicate tendon running through the middle, but it was such an excellent cut every bite melted in my mouth. It was a perfect meal.

We were not ready to let go, so we had to order a dessert. The chocolate cake with mousse was ok, but really just gilding the lily. I was surprised at how inexpensive our meal was, but it would be a great deal at any price. This is a place to take your parents, your boss, or the girl you want to marry. John’s is pure class.

Sear’s Fine Food 439 Powell Street SF 94102 (415) 986-0700

Vino Venue 686 Mission Street SF 94105 (415) 341-1930

John’s Grill 63 Ellis St. SF 94102 (415) 986-0069

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San Francisco Sunday

BLONDIE’S PIZZA

When I was a teenager, there was nothing cooler than going up to San Francisco for the weekend with a friend’s punk band. Everyone always hung out at Blondie’s Pizza. Maybe because it’s by the streetcar lines, but probably because it was cheap and there is a basement downstairs where they don’t mind if you get a little rowdy.

While I waited for my friends to meet me, I sat in the basement dining room next to a group of teenaged kids. Soon another group of teenagers sat across from them and they eyed each other until finally someone spoke up, “Hey, I know you!”
“I don’t think so.”
“Yeah. I do.”
(Silence)
“Yeah. last week I was on the bus, and there was some crazy motherfucker on the bus and he was punchin’ everybody.”
The accused sat and stared at his slice while everyone stared at him to see if he would admit to punching people on the bus.
Finally he broke the silence, “I must’a been HIGH.”
Then we all turned back to our slices.

The secret of Blondie’s pizza is much the same as Krispy Kreme. Take whatever slice just came out of the oven. Wait for the next pizza if you have to. Fresh out of the oven, the crust is warm and soft, like homemade bread. The cheese melts into long strings and the pepperoni is super spicy. After just 10 minutes out of the oven, the pizza is mediocre at best. They also offer acceptable chicken and salads. Drink refills are 50-cents and the bathroom costs a quarter.

THE JAZZ BISTRO

Our selection of the Jazz Bistro for dinner was based on proximity to the hotel and the quality of the music being played. Red flags went up for a few of my dining partners, particularly the dirty restrooms, so there was some disagreement. But I was tired of walking and loved the music. It wasn’t a BAD meal, per se, and the service was excellent. The first glass of wine my friend was given had turned, but they cheerfully exchanged it and were more than gracious when we spilled a glass of water all over the table. The food was just dull. It was good enough. The chicken and fish were properly cooked, and the ravioli was good, but the potatoes were cold. It just really, really reminded us of banquet food. It was wedding reception food. I would go back for drinks and jazz, but only after eating steaks at John’s across the street first.

Blondie’s Pizza 63 Powell Street SF 94102 (415) 982-6168

Jazz Bistro 44 Ellis Street SF 94102 (415) 397-5397

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Saturday in SF

Tommy’s Joynt

Saturday my brother and nephews picked me up for a day of sightseeing and to sample the kind of local dives they know I love. We started out with lunch at a disappearing San Francisco institution, a hofbrau. Tommy’s had me at the gaudy carnival mural. Inside, burly men hefty huge cuts of meat and weilded long, greasy knives. What more could you ask for? Beer? But of course. I split a giant brisket sandwich with one of my nephews and enjoyed a lovely amber. I could have easily hung around all afternoon.

Tommy’s Restaurant

There were sights to see and one more Tommy’s to hit before returning to my hotel for the late-afternoon workshop. Tommy’s Restaurant, which opened in 1965, is known for its excellent Yucatan-inspired dishes and vast array of tequilas. The entire back page of the menu contained a tequila list as extensive as many restaurant’s wine lists. And they definitely pour with a heavy hand. I couldn’t even finish my on-the-rocks margarita or I would have been completely wasted at my afternoon conference. The burritos were huge, the tortillas were fresh, and my Pork Adobado was juicy and flavorful. The house salad dressing seemed to just be a pico de gallo salsa, and the black beans were much more salty than I am used to. But if I had only finished that margarita, I’m sure I wouldn’t have cared about a little extra salt in the food or anything else. As we left the comfy little neighborhood restaurant, I overheard the guy behind me drunkenly insisting, “Hey! I have NOTHING against Norwegians!”

Out the Door

Out the Door in the Westfield Mall is the low-key version of San Francisco’s much-lauded Slanted Door. We were really excited to eat there, especially because of the cool minimalist decor and the large selection of vegan options. Our server did not seem nearly as excited to see us. When we asked him questions about the menu, he would just pause and stare at us. For example, if I were to say, “I’m undecided between these two dishes; what would you recommend?” Most servers would say things like, “Well, the noodles are really generous, so it depends on how hungry you are.” or maybe “The chicken is very popular.” Our server just stared at us, pencil poised above order pad. Finally, one of my friends felt uncomfortable enough to take over the server’s duties by saying things like, “That dish has chili paste in it. Do you like spicy food?” while the server stared impatiently.

Dishes were brought one at a time, about five minutes apart, and dropped on the table by runners who would mumble the name of the dish and race off. I caught one of the runners by the arm to ask for our drinks, which had not yet arrived. My chicken curry was good, but not any better or worse than if I had ordered from a random Hollywood take-out menu left on my doorhandle. One of my friend’s noodles were pretty bland. But the 5-spice noodles – WOW. They were fantastic, with intensely bright Vietnamese flavors. I would definitely return for them again and again.

My vegan friend was still waiting for her order. We all remarked upon how she always had to wait. Then they dropped a plate of chicken and noodles in front of her and whizzed away. She managed to hunt down our waiter, who had been hanging out at a table full of cute boys, chattering away. He showed her that the 5-spice noodles my other friend was eating were actually the vegan noodles. When the runner had brought them, she had clearly said, “chicken noodles.” Irritated, he took her chicken plate away, and ordered a vegan replacement. He did not offer the chicken noodles to the person who had ordered them, assuming apparantly that she had cast her lot when she started mistakenly eating the vegan noodles. Whenever we needed anything else, we stopped looking for our unfriendly waiter altogether and started seeking help from a different waiter, who my friend referred to as “The Mustache.” He was friendly and helpful. We complimented him to the manager as we left. I left “unfriendly waiter” a low 10-15 percent tip, but a few other people in our small party left him only a dollar.

Lefty O’Doul’s

It is no easy task getting a big group of out-of-towners to all be in the same place at the same time. After copious text-messages flew back-and-forth Saturday night, we all ended up at another San Francisco institution, Lefty O’Doul’s . Running along one side of the room is a carving station with big hunks of meat ready to be carved, hofbrau-style. It gave the place a weird half-bar, half-high school cafeteria feel. They stopped serving at midnight, and by the time we arrived at 11:45 pm the choice was either roast beef or ham. I chose roast beef. The sandwich could have been better, but I got the feeling that had I arrived at a more reasonable hour, it would have been. My friend declared her cherry pie first rate, although I’m not sure it was worth it to have to hear that fucking Warrant song over and over again after everyone started getting drunk. The draft selection was impressive (Bass! Fat Tire! Yay!), and the piano at one end of the room cranked out a strange mixture of requests, mostly golden hits of the 70s. If there was a place like Lefty’s around the corner from me, I would be there all the time.

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San Francisco 1


As timing would have it, my trip to San Francisco last week came right on the heels of Michael Bauer’s controversial article, The Dish on Los Angeles. Unlike many Angelinos, I did not get the impression that his article was maligning our entire restaurant scene. I thought it was a pretty standard assessment of a certain class of restaurant – the good, the bad, and the Patina Group. I did find it puzzling that he would be so suprised by the “industry” types he ran across, considering the fact that he mainly ate at “industry” restaurants. Everyone knows you don’t go to the Ivy to actually eat. You go there to be photographed by the paparazzi so everyone will know that you are straight/still in love with your wife/signing with Fox. Another charge lobbed against Bauer was his narrow scope. He stated that his selections were made with care using a combination of guidebooks and advice from friends. But that book was more likely the Zagat Guide than Counter Intelligence. Bauer does address and acknowledge the lack of “ethnic” restaurants as as well. I have no beef with the man and do not feel the urge to challenge him to a culinary dance-off.

As I prepared for my trip to the Bay Area, however, a few people suggested that I “take them on”. An epicurian throw-down! But as I said, I have no beef with Bauer, and I am not exactly in a position to go toe-to-toe with a bonifide restaurant critic, much less take on an entire city. So this posting is not meant to be a culinary dance-off.

That being said, I did just eat my way all over San Francisco and I can’t wait to dish!

I arrived in San Francisco with a few business colleagues last Friday for a 6-day conference, to be followed by two days of sight-seeing with my husband. I didn’t do too much research beforehand, knowing that my dining choices would be limited by the conference. The only advice I sought was from the good people over at www.roadfood.com who always know where to find the hidden gems.

Friday

Millenium

After my friends and I checked in, we decided to have a nice evening out at Millenium, a white-tablecloth vegan restaurant in the ultrahip-looking Savoy Hotel. Our reservations were for 9:30 pm. We were starving, so we arrived an hour early, and sat at the bar and ordered drinks and an appetizer. One of our foursome was not ready when the bartender took our orders, and the bartender never returned to take her order. We were sitting by the cash register, which you would think put us in the thick of things, but we had a very hard time getting another bartender to finally take her drink order. The deep-fried wild mushrooms I ordered as a starter were excellent hot, and the chutney was a nice accompaniment. But as the mushrooms cooled, the coating became an unappetizing dried-chickpea-like goo. Our reservation time came and went. Finally the hostess told us we would be seated any minute, so I settled up the bar tab.

As we continued to wait, and wait, the fast food across the street began to call to me. Finally, an hour after our reservation time had passed, I told my vegan friend that I loved her but that I was going across the street. She decided to just place her order to go. I ended up at Taqueria El Sol. They made me a beautiful made-to-order carne asada burrito. I walked back across the street and shamelessly set the bag on the bar while my friend waited for her to-go order. Later, in our room, she said the tempeh was excellent. My 4.95 burrito was also damn good.

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The mysteries of Dinah’s

The Mysteries of Dinah’s Fried Chicken

When Alan Arkin freaks out in the beginning of Little Miss Sunshine, shouting, “Again with the fucking chicken! It’s always with the goddamn fucking chicken!” all I could do was stare at the instantly recognizable bucket and think, “How could anyone ever get sick of Dinah’s?” The fried coating is so highly seasoned and crispy. The meat is so juicy and tender. Alan Arkin should consider himself lucky.

Dinah’s Fried Chicken has been a Glendale institution since 1967.

Los Angeles is also home to Dinah’s Family Restaurant in Culver City, which is more of a coffeeshop. The Culver City Dinah’s is known for its gigantic German apple pancakes, but it also has a chicken take-out in a separate part of the building. With the exact same buckets. With the same fried chicken. There is quite a bit of speculation on the internet about the two Dinah’s. Most people assume that the same family used to own both restaurants, but that they sold the Culver City location. Some people claim the exact opposite – that the Culver City Dinah’s is the original, which has sold the Glendale location. There are even rumors that it was once a chain. Nobody is very clear on the real story.

You only need to look as far as the pictures on the walls to see the authentic history of the Glendale Dinah’s. It has clearly been going strong for two generations. The restaurant is now run by Dave Pearson, the original owner’s son, and his wife Linda. So I decided to go straight to the source and speak to one of the current owners. Let me tell you, this was no easy feat because they certainly do get up early in the morning to get that restaurant humming.

So here we solve the great mystery of Dinah’s. Straight from Linda Pearson.

40 years ago, a group of golfing buddies came up with the idea for Dinah’s. They shared plans, recipes and logos, but the restaurants were each independently owned and operated. One family decided to build their Dinah’s as a coffeeshop (The Culver City coffeeshop is now run by the original golfing buddy’s step-grandson). The other families decided to open chicken stands, six in all. As time has worn on, one Dinah’s after another has closed its doors. The last of the other Dinah’s called it quits in Burbank ten years ago, leaving only the Culver City coffee shop and and the Glendale chicken stand. Although nothing has been said outright, I get the impression that the two Dinah’s are not exactly on visiting terms.

There are no big naugahyde booths and no giant apple pancakes at the Glendale Dinah’s. The little cafe is furnished sparsely with comfortable wooden chairs, and every table has a jar of their homemade apple butter. To keep it from being too plain, the room is gussied up a little with country-style doo-dads. The service is super-friendly, and if you are dining alone you will quickly make friends with the staff and other diners. It is a classic neighborhood joint.

Although chicken is the big seller, Dinah’s fried livers are pretty famous. I’m not a big fan of chicken livers, so I thought I’d try the deep fried gizzards on my last visit. I’d eaten tough, chewy gizzard gristle at family dinners and later cooked with them, struggling to find edible bits for my dirty rice. Dinah’s gizzards were a revelation. I had no idea it could be like this. They were crispy and crunchy on the outside, yet they melted in your mouth. I finally understood how some people can eat rocky mountain oysters. If they are anything like this, I would eat them too. Yes, I said it. If they tasted this good, I would eat balls. These gizzards would be perfect at a bar, where I could snack on them all night while drinking beer (Dinah’s is reputedly BYOB). I enticed a lady at the next table to try some – I am kind of aggressively friendly. When she saw that I was abandoning a half-full plate, she asked if she could have the gizzards wrapped up to take home. They were that good.

The side dishes are equally famous, and people seem to either love them passionately or find them a little too unusual. These are definitely not your same old sides. I love the pineapple cole slaw, but there are people who can’t deal with the sweetness. The macaroni salad has a little touch of powdered mustard and fresh garlic. If you eat enough of it you can feel the slow burn of garlic creeping up on you. I will admit, you do have to eat the macaroni salad right out of the big tub with a fork to achieve that burn. Not that it’s something I have ever done, mind you. Their newest offering, Mac and cheese, also kicks ass, which should make a certain cheese-loving LAist very, very happy.

The only dish I can’t really recommend is the fish and chips. The chips themselves are fantastic. Some of the best french fries around. But the fish is in a breadcrumb coating instead of Dinah’s fantastic batter. So although they are servicable, they are missing the zing and Dinah’s signature crackle. There are just so many other great options on the menu. Besides the crave-worthy gizzards, juicy chicken, and fun side dishes, the rolls are fresh store-bought, and the delicious little pies come from Martinello’s bakery.

There are two more mysteries that need clearing up before I go. What is their secret frying method? What makes the fried chicken “Oh so free of oil” as the bucket boasts? The secret is a deep-fryer with a pressure-lock lid that turns it into a pressure cooker. So it is basically deep-fried and pressure cooked at the same time. Pressure-fried. Crispy on the outside, juicy on the inside.

The final mystery has to be, just how long does it take to get sick of Dinah’s fried chicken and have an Alan Arkin meltdown? I bought a nice big bucket to take home for research purposes. I didn’t even get the giant bucket. The answer? Three days. No matter how good it is, after three days of nothing but chicken you never want to see one of those buckets again. Until about a week later. Of course, I have not yet tried this experiment on those meltingly tender gizzards. Maybe with a few gizzards thrown in now and then, Alan Arkin might not have snapped.

Dinah’s Original Recipe Fried Chicken 4106 San Fernando Road Glendale, CA 91204
(818) 244-4188

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Dressing up at La Scala


When I was a little girl, my dad didn’t have the means for fancy restaurants, but his boss sure did. Every once in awhile, he would take my parents out for a special dinner in Beverly Hills. My mom would have her hair sprayed into an immovable up-do, and slather herself with Avon products. Dressed to the nines, my parents would leave behind the squalor and police sirens of Wilmington and disappear into a world of luxury. A world I could only imagine by the glamorous chocolate-dipped candy reception stick I would find on my pillow in the morning.

The first time I walked into La Scala, I recognized it as exactly the kind of place I used to imagine my parents floating off to – red leather booths, spotless white tablecloths, and ugly but expensive-looking English paintings. Although La Scala has changed locations during its long reign in Beverly Hills, it feels like it has always existed within these brick walls, lovingly watched over by the multitude of celebrity charicatures.

I ate lunch at La Scala again last week, during the lull between the lunch and dinner rushes. The employees were relaxed and smiling as they joshed around with each other. In spite of the fastidiousness, this is not an uptight atmosphere. A jacketed man stood near the bar, slowly inspecting the room with his hands on his hips. When he was satisfied that every glass sparkled and every napkin was correctly folded, I saw him take a deep breath of pride. He caught me watching him, and as our eyes met I spontaneously winked at him.

I consider the bread basket a harbinger of things to come, and their French bread is crispy, hearty and addictive. For antipasti, their crab cakes are delicately fried, and definitely more crab than cake. The lemony sour cream sauce is a little odd, but it works.

Although La Scala is known for their chopped salad, their minestrone, and their Spaghetti alla Bolognese, there is no dish I can recommend more highly than the Spaghetti al Cognac. The spaghetti is topped with a generous portion of tender shrimp which are flambéed with cognac and tossed in a perfectly balanced pink sauce.

The Cannelloni alla Gigi is pure heaven – homemade crepes with an unbelievably light beef and veal filling. They are swimming in the richest bechamel I have ever encountered, beribboned with just a few streaks of red sauce. I actually had to stop eating this dish before I was finished, and I have an unusually high tolerance for cream and butter. I would definitely recommend splitting it along with a lighter entree. The Chicken Parmigiana is crispy on the outside and tender on the inside. The coating did not become soggy even after sitting in a take-out container. With pasta on the side, The Parmigiana is a huge portion that easily serves two. For dessert, a chocolate cake layered with a cocoa mousse and intense ganache will satisfy even the worst chocolate craving (And if not, there is always the Edelweiss Chocolates Factory next door).

A surprisingly affordable splurge, a half-salad runs around eight dollars, pasta dishes average sixteen, and an all-out entrée will set you back twenty bucks. At lunchtime La Scala runs a brisk take-out business from the bar, with a convenient 10-minute parking zone just outside. But in the middle of a stressful day, there is no greater treat than to lean back in a comfortable banquette seat, order a glass of champagne and allow the solicitous staff to make you believe for just that moment that you are the most important person in the world. I can almost smell my mother’s Emeraude perfume.

La Scala 434 North Canon Drive, Beverly Hills, CA 90210 (310) 275-0579

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Cheese is the new Wine

I love food. I love talking about food. I can spend hours discussing the merits of different mustards, or trying to figure out the mystery flavor in a pasta sauce. But I think food should be accessible. It should not be intimidating. I avoid saying things like ”flavor profile”. I am more likely to say things like, “This gravy is so good I want to fill a jacuzzi with it and jump in naked.”

My dislike of culinary pedantry can probably be traced back to the family dinner table. My brothers are all wine snobs, oh, sorry, I mean connoisseurs. It always annoys me when they get out their wine gadgets and start arguing. They throw around terms like peppery finish, a nice mouth feel, and notes of raspberry. It sounds so pretentious.

I was excited when cheese shops started opening up all over town; it could only mean new flavors, and new things to talk about. Up until now, making a cheese plate had always been pretty standard – one soft, one medium, one hard and one bleu. Easy peasy. Brie, Jarlsberg, a good Pecorino. But since I am not a big fan of bleu cheese, I usually substitute something like a smoked gouda. Throw a bunch of grapes on the plate, and voila.

With the recent profusion of cheese shops, things have gotten a little more complicated. No problem. The cheese shops in Silverlake have always approached it, like, “Isn’t this fun? Let’s explore the fabulous world of cheese together!” They have the natural enthusiasm of a true hobbyist showing off their collection. So I have learned more about sheep’s milk vs. goat’s milk, and the richness of triple crèmes. I have fallen in love with their precious little artesanals. Who can resist a cute round of goat cheese wrapped in grape leaves and tied up with string?

But things are starting to get out of control.

Today I walked into a cheese shop in Beverly Hills. I asked the man behind the counter, “Are you familiar with Purple Haze?” He said, “Yes. WE don’t carry THAT one.” He said it as if I had asked for Velveeta (And I’m not knocking Velveeta. Velveeta has its place). Was he really scoffing at me? I felt like Julia Roberts in Pretty Woman . Was I going to have to call in Richard Gere just to buy some fucking cheese? The cheese man stared at me impatiently. I said, “OK then, I’d like something soft, maybe a triple crème, and something medium, kind of nutty. I don’t mind if it’s feet-y, but I don’t like it cave-y.” He stared at me as if I were speaking Martian. I became flustered. I tried to clarify, “You know, cave-y, cave-aged. I don’t like it when the cheese is black.” He nodded at me suspiciously, but returned with three different cheeses, from which I selected two.

While my cheese man wrapped up my order, the other counterman and the guy next to me were talking about sports cars; their smoothness, their power, their sleekness. I wasn’t really listening to them, but it was hard to ignore their fervor. They got louder and louder, more and more intense. They were in a full-on pissing contest when I heard the cheese man challenge the customer, “Come on, step up to the plate.” The customer was shocked, “Step up to the plate? Did you just tell me to step up to the plate?” They locked eyes and their nostrils flared. My cheese man tried to intercede by offering the customer a sample of one of my selections. But the customer kept his eyes firmly locked on his cheese man’s eyes. He didn’t even blink. He was in a stand-off. Slowly I realized what was going on. All this testosterone, all this one-up-manship. They had not been talking about sports cars at all. They were talking about CHEESE.

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Throw a vegan-friendly BBQ!

Like most people, I have gone through my vegetarian phases, my vegan phases and the worst of all – my low-carb phase. So my cooking is pretty versatile. I have a lot of vegan friends who love barbecues, and it only takes a few minor changes to make them more comfortable. Even if you are super-carnivorous, you can still host a barbecue that will make your vegan friends happy. First of all, you want to clean the hell out of your grill. It’s a good idea to do this at the beginning of barbecue season anyways. Then get plenty of aluminum foil. Sure, you won’t get the cool grill-marks, but it is vegan etiquette for everyone to cook their big, beefy burgers and tofu dogs on separate pieces of aluminum foil. Luckily, with the profusion of veggie hot dog, burger and even bratwurst substitutes, main courses aren’t much of a challenge. Just double-check to make sure the buns are vegan. There are a number of websites listing vegan products, including Peta.org. There are often hidden animal products in food that are not that obvious, so if someone is really strict, it’s best to check.

After the grill is taken care of, the second most important component of a barbecue is the ice chest. Luckily, most beer is vegan, with the notable exception of honey beers and Guinness. With liquors, you want to watch out for red food coloring #4, cochineal, also known as carmine or carminic acid (trust me, you really don’t want to know). It is most notably found in Campari.

These are some of my favorite summer recipes that just happen to be vegan:

CALICO CORN SALAD

1 (16-oz) package frozen corn (preferably shoepeg), thawed
2 small zucchinis, diced
1/4 large red pepper, diced
1/2 small onion, chopped
1 (4-oz) can diced green chiles, drained
1/4 cup olive or vegetable oil
2 Tablespoons freshly squeezed lime juice
1/2 Tablespoon cider vinegar
3/4 teaspoon ground cumin
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon pepper
1/4 teaspoon garlic salt

Toss together corn, zucchini, red pepper, onion, and chiles in a large bowl.
Measure remaining ingredients into a jar or bottle with a lid. Shake well.
Pour liquid over salad and stir gently. Refrigerate overnight.

GRILLED VEGETABLES

1 cup olive oil
1 Tbsp. each: Garlic powder, Dried basil, parsley, oregano, herbes de provence
Salt and pepper to taste
4 – 5 pounds mixed vegetables (Zucchini, Red and yellow bell peppers, eggplant, onion, etc)
1/4 cup red wine or red wine vinegar

Mix olive oil and spices together, preferably the day before.

Halve smaller vegetables lengthwise. Quarter onions and bell peppers. Cut larger squashes crosswise.

When coals are ready, dip vegetables into olive oil mixture. BBQ until just soft. Arrange on a platter.

Mix remaining marinade with wine or wine vinegar, and pour over vegetables.

PESTO PASTA SALAD

1 (12 or 16-ounce) package mini-penne or bow-tie pasta

1/4 cup pine nuts
2 cups fresh basil, firmly packed
1/3 cup fresh parsley
14 garlic cloves (yes, really. Fourteen)
1/4 cup white wine
1 slice roasted or fresh red bell pepper
Pinch sea salt
1/2 – 1 cup olive oil

2 cups sliced shiitake mushrooms
3/4 cup frozen edamame
8 sun-dried tomatoes in oil.

In a large pot of boiling water, cook pasta according to package directions. If the pasta is done before you finish making the pesto, toss with a little olive oil and set aside.

Meanwhile, Toast pine nuts in a toaster oven or in a pan over the stove for 3-4 minutes, watching not to burn them.

In a blender or food processor, combine pine nuts, basil, parsley, garlic, wine, bell pepper and salt with 1/2 cup olive oil. Blend. Keep blending and adding olive oil until pesto has reached its desired consistency.

In a medium pan, saute the mushrooms in a Tablespoon of olive oil until they begin to change color to a light tan, about 4 minutes.

Put the edamame in a bowl with a few tablespoons of water and microwave for 2 minutes, then drain (If you have your timing down you could just add them to the pasta a few minutes before it is done).

Slice the sun-dried tomatoes carefully into thin strips (they are slippery).

Toss everything together in a big bowl and refrigerate.

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